Saturday, March 22, 2025

A dash of Venetian elegance

Cecconi’s, known for its refined Northern Italian cuisine and style-conscious decor, has just opened its new Brighton Beach venue to the general public, bringing what, some might say, is a dash of Venetian elegance to the Sussex coast. Situated on the first floor of the Soho House buildings within the Grade II-listed terrace on Madeira Drive, the restaurant has views across the beach and towards the Palace Pier. 


However, a word of warning to the general public: Cecconi’s remains a rather exclusive venue. Having walked all the way round the Soho House premises on Madeira Drive, I’ve no doubt the restaurant is inside somewhere but I could find no trace of Cecconi’s from the outside, no name, no sign, no menu.

Cecconi’s was founded in 1978 by Enzo Cecconi, the youngest-ever general manager of Venice’s famed Hotel Cipriani (which nowadays offers rooms starting at $1,400 per night!). The first restaurant opened in London’s Mayfair, quickly becoming a hotspot for those seeking a theatrical dining experience and authentic Venetian cuisine. In 2005, the restaurant was acquired by Soho House (‘a club for creatives’), a move which led to a rapid expansion of the Cecconi’s brand, with a first UK location outside London at Bicester Village, and thereafter some 15 or more venues, from Miami to Mumbai, and Istanbul to LA. 


Among the cicchetti on offer in the Brighton Cecconi’s is ‘whipped ricotta, chilli honey, oregano’, a snip at £10, while ‘spaghetti, native lobster, tomato, chilli’ will set you back £40. Open Table has mostly positive reviews, such as ‘a lovely spot for lunch, the staff were really warm and friendly. It’s very easy to enjoy the wine and the views!’ Another diner, though, noted: ‘Beautiful location. Food is ok. Restaurant staff were wonderful but bar staff very moody and abrupt.’ Happy dining, if you can find the entrance!

PS: If you’re over 27, local membership of Soho House will cost you £125 a month, or £2,000 for global membership (both require a hefty £550 joining fee).






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