‘Fantastic new refectory’

The new Reading Room cafe! What a fabulous addition to the Kemp Town end of Brighton Beach. Some 190 years after it was first constructed the small but majestic building has finally been rescued from years of ignominy as a glorified storage closet. Long may it serve coffee and croissants.

The Reading Room was constructed in 1835 as part of the grand Kemp Town development, designed by architect William Kendall. Located below the Esplanade and near the tunnel entrance to the Enclosures (private gardens), it formed part of a larger architectural ensemble that included The Temple and Esplanade Cottages. The Reading Room’s classical aesthetic included a stuccoed exterior with Tuscan pilasters and round-arched openings. 

Originally intended as a communal space for the affluent residents of Lewes Crescent and Sussex Square, it provided a sheltered area for reading and socialising while enjoying views of the sea. By the late 19th century, its original purpose had diminished. The room was repurposed as a potting shed for the estate gardener and later used for various storage purposes, such as housing tennis nets when lawn tennis became popular in the 1880s. During World War II, like other parts of Kemp Town’s infrastructure, it was utilised for military storage, reflecting the wartime transformation of civilian spaces.

The Reading Room underwent significant restoration as part of Brighton’s Black Rock Rejuvenation Project (led by Brighton & Hove City Council with funding from the Coast to Capital Local Enterprise Partnership). The building’s refurbishment was completed in November 2024 when it opened as a ‘refectory’ and community hub. Its features are said to include modern amenities such as floor-to-ceiling windows, a terrace with sea views, and sustainable design elements. Councillor Mitchie Alexander stated ‘The opening of this fantastic new refectory continues the journey that is revitalising the eastern seafront.’

Fantastic new refectory? I wouldn’t disagree, was good-looking and buzzing when I last visited.

A rumble below the cocktails?

There’s a right construction bustle going on along the Madeira Drive beach front near Yellowave and Sea Lanes. Most of it stems from the work - now well under way - on Phase 1 of the Madeira Terrace restoration. See Madeira Terrace restoration - hurrah!. But there are also road works that have just started on the narrowest stretch of Madeira Drive; and, at the Jungle Rumble cafe, the owners are extending their roof terrace over the Volks Railway! 

Since the start of works on the central 28 arches of Madeira Terraces there has been much activity along the seafront road, especially in and around the new commercial centre focusing on Sea Lanes and Yellowave. But that little area has got even busier with digging up of the road to allow a new electricity cable to be run from the nearby substation to the construction works area under arches. ALS Civil & Mechanical Engineers is responsible for the works, presumably sub-contracted by JT Mackley & Co.

A little further along is Jungle Rumble, a cafe and mini-golf establishment; both are next to the council’s popular Peter Pan Playground. The cafe, in particular, has grown in recent years, with a roof terrace in 2022, and the winning of an alcohol licence. See Brighton and Hove News. 

Now, as these photos show, the cafe looks to be nearly doubling the size of its roof terrace. And, it is doing this by extending its roof out over the Volks railway lines. Time will tell whether rooftop cocktail drinkers might experience a rumble below. (Aerial image is a screenshot taken from the Jungle Rumble website video.)

The Meeting Place progress

Right on the old boundary between Hove and Brighton and on the beach, sits a much loved cafe - The Meeting Place. It’s been through several transformations during nearly a century of serving teas, and is currently close to re-emerging in its new build form, modern, sleek and designed to fit aesthetically within the location.

Originally established in the 1930s a few feet on the Hove side of the boundary, the Meeting Place cafe was little more than a small wooden kiosk. In 2002, due to preservation orders preventing expansion on the Hove side, the café relocated a few feet east to a new building on the Brighton side of the border. Over the years, the cafe has featured in several books, films, and TV dramas, including the television series Poirot. A documentary was produced for the Brighton Festival, capturing the story of the beloved old kiosk before its demolition.

The establishment remained under the same ownership until 2021, when it was bought by Hikmet Tabak and Bulent Ekinci. The duo put forward plans to rebuild the cafe as a two-storey building with a roof terrace, but this was opposed by The Conservation Advisory Group and deemed too large and intrusive. The plans were revised significantly - by dropping the two-storey design and roof terrace, reducing the floor space, and decreasing the seating capacity. These plans were approved in June 2023, and construction started a year ago this weekend - see the cafe’s Facebook page (scroll down for a feast of cakes and other dishes). Architectural plans, maps and proposed visuals are all available in the council’s planning proposal documents.

In a statement (reported in the local news) prepared by the owner’s agent, Lewis and Co Planning, the applicants said: ‘To preserve the important character of the conservation area, the proposed cafe would be single storey in height so as not obstruct the sweeping views along the seafront and towards the Regency terraces and squares. As the proposal would replace the existing, somewhat dated and tired-looking cafe, it is considered that there would be a neutral impact on the setting. Although the footprint would be larger, the proposed replacement building has been designed with simple clean lines and finished in a muted colour palette to reduce the potential for it to compete visually with the Edward VII Memorial [Peace statue], the setting of which provides for clear views of the statue against expansive skies and the sea.’

Construction is nearing completion as can be seen by the top photo from recent days. In the meantime, a temporary structure a few feet to the west - a brief return for the cafe to Hove and to its more basic roots! - has been doing good business. The chalkboard menu offers gourmet burgers and fine illustrations.

  

Pumping above its weight

There is an historic building, a pub, in Market Street called The Pump House. The name derives from an old timber pier with a pump house which used to pump seawater ashore to different establishments for bathing in the 18th century - for health-giving purposes. It’s a handsome building. A few hundred meters away, on the beach itself, can be found the rather less sophisticated Pump Room, presumably once named after the same antiquated business practice. 

But it’s not just the Pump Room, it’s The World Famous Pump Room - even on Google. As I snapped this photograph I wondered whether this was true, so I asked Perplexity. Ever respectful and polite, it answered: ‘While the cafe refers to itself as ‘world famous,’ this designation appears to be more of a branding choice than a reflection of widespread international recognition. There is limited evidence to suggest that the cafe is renowned on a global scale. However, it is well-regarded locally, with patrons praising its prime location, quality offerings, and friendly service.’

However, ‘world famous’ is not the only claim this brilliantly self-aggrandising business makes. A large signage board on the red brick wall next to the cafe promises ‘The Best Ice Cream on Brighton Beach by far!’, and it lists over 20 flavours (Coconut and Pineapple, Banana Fudge, Cappuccino Coffee, Pralines n Cream . . .). There are also several vegan flavors on offer (Apple Pie, Ginger Nut, Chocolate Oreo . . . ). And then, comes this: ‘Probably the most famous Beach Cafe in the world.’

Well, that IS a red rag to the likes of AI fact checkers.

Here is Perplexity’s list of the five most famous beach cafes:

Speedos Café, Bondi Beach ‘the most famous and Instagrammable beach café in the world according to travel magazine Big Seven Travel; Porthminster Beach Café - Cornwall, UK; La Petit Plage - St. Barths, Caribbean; Club Dauphin - Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, France; Comal - Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

And here is ChatGPT’s list:

Scorpios Mykonos - Paraga Beach, Mykonos, Greece; La Guérite - Île Sainte-Marguerite, Cannes, France; Ku De Ta - Seminyak Beach, Bali, Indonesia; Nikki Beach Saint-Tropez - Saint-Tropez, France; The Rock Restaurant - Michamvi Pingwe Beach, Zanzibar

Sorry, even though we all love you Pump Room, you’re punching (pumping!) a tad above your weight.

The carnivorous whelk

Herewith, as promised a couple of days ago and with little adornment, is the life cycle of the common whelk (Buccinum undatum).

Whelks reproduce annually, with spawning occurring between October and May. The process begins when water temperatures drop below 12°C. Females attract males by releasing pheromones, and fertilisation occurs internally. After mating, females move to hard substrates like rocks, shells, or stones to lay their eggs. The eggs are deposited in small, spherical protective capsules, which are stuck together in a sponge-like mass. Each capsule can contain up to 2,700 eggs, and a single female may produce 80-150 capsules.

The embryos develop within the egg capsules for 2-5 months. During this time, many of the eggs serve as food for the developing embryos, with only about 1% successfully developing into juveniles. After 4-5 months, fully formed juvenile whelks hatch from the capsules in winter. Newly hatched whelks measure about 3 mm in shell length. They then grow slowly, reaching 10-15 mm after one year and 21-26 mm at two years. They typically reach sexual maturity between 4.7 and 7.5 years of age, at a shell height of 45-70 mm.

Adult whelks are carnivorous predators and active scavengers. They use chemosensors to detect food in the water, extending a tube called a siphon to funnel water into their sensory organs. Their diet includes polychaete worms, small bivalve molluscs, and carrion. Common whelks typically live for about 10 years.

Unless, of course, they are caught for eating by carnivorous humans.

Brighton & Newhaven Fish Sales operate several boats that catch whelk (among other fish). The Evie Mae, an under-10m multipurpose catamaran, engages in whelk fishing during the warm summer months. One of its fishermen, Kier Foster, was quoted recently as saying: ‘There’s not much of a market here for these [local catches]. It’s best to cook the whelks, slice them up and send them to China where they go for £30 a kilo.” 

Nevertheless, you can buy fresh whelks on Brighton’s pebbles in the summer thanks to Frazer Leigh Smith’s Brighton Shellfish & Oyster Bar where they are served with vinegar and pepper. Delicious - if you like the sort of thing!

Of cockles clams and scallops

There seem to be an unusually large number of shells (the exoskeletons of animals) on the beach this winter. I may be wrong but I don’t recall shells vying with pebbles for dominance in so many areas along the tide line - perhaps this is because of a preponderance of winter storms and rough seas.

Here’s a photo from today with some or all of the following: 

Common whelk (Buccinum undatum) - spiral shells

Mussels (Mytilus edulis) - darker, elongated shells

Cockles (Cerastoderma edule) - rounded shells with ridges

Venus shells - smoother, rounded shells

Barnacles or limpets - possibly some of the encrusted or broken parts

The largest shells that I’ve ever found on Brighton Beach are scallops, beautiful fan-shaped objects. There aren’t many, though, because most of them, the ones I’ve seen and collected over the years, have been found much closer to Shoreham, immediately east of the River Adur (near the fab cafe, Carats).

Fun fact from BBC Science Focus. The very largest shells are of giant clams, Tridacna gigas. They can grow to well over a metre across and tip the scales at 200kg. Like all shell-making molluscs, they sculpt their protective homes from calcium carbonate and gradually expand them throughout their lives. They inhabit coral reefs and can live for at least a century. Here’s one on sale for around £3,000 (by UK Architectural Heritage).

Coming soon - life cycle of the common whelk!

Après Ski By The Sea!

Snow does not often fall on Brighton Beach; and very infrequently does it settle on the pebbles. Nevertheless, yesterday saw a brief, but flurry-full snowstorm. There was traffic chaos, of course, and children’s joy undiminished in residential streets and parks. It may or may not be widely known but Brighton Beach has the perfect venue for such days.

Located at 127 Kings Road Arches, the family-run Brighton Music Hall boasts the largest beach terrace in the UK with covered spaces. Every winter, the owners say, ‘we like to bring you something new and exciting - join us for Après Ski By The Sea!’. Amazingly, I would say, so far from the mountains, Après Ski By The Sea! features faux fur filled igloos, ski chalets clad with tartans, cushions, alpine backdrops and log fires, the Fallen Fairy bar, and decadent cocktails, alpine treats and dishes. And, of course, a wooden toboggan.

Currently, the venue’s website offers, in its What’s On section, ‘Drag Roasts’ and ‘Funky Fridays’. It is also promising free fizz for early birds who are prepared to make a 15 + booking for Christmas 2025.

As it’s perfectly possible the rest of these 365 days will pass by without further snowfalls, I am taking this opportunity to display the most snowy Brighton Beach photo I have - from April 2008. Although the ragged snowman is mine, the photo of Hattie was taken by a passing stranger, a professional cameraman who asked permission to take it, and then sent us a copy. Unfortunately, I seem to have no record of his name.