French attack repulsed!

Exactly 480 years ago today, and amid heightened hostilities between England and France, a French fleet launched an attempted landing at Brighton. The incident is vividly described in Holinshed’s Chronicles, later quoted by the Victorian historian John Ackerson Erredge. Alongside this narrative survives a remarkable contemporary map, now held in the British Library, which graphically depicts the French fleet offshore, the disembarkation of troops, and the town in flames.

In 1545, during the reign of Henry VIII, England was in conflict with France. After Henry’s forces had taken Boulogne and devastated regions of France, King Francis I sent Admiral D’Annebault with a formidable fleet to retaliate by striking at the English south coast. The event, described in Holinshed’s Chronicles (a three-volume British history published in the late 16th century), as quoted in History of Brighthelmston by Erredge (page 61), specifically mentions Brighton (then styled ‘Bright Hampstead’ or ‘Brighthampston’):

‘In 37[th year of the reign of] Hen. 8th, 1545, July the 18th, the admiral of Franco, Mons. Donebatte [a corruption of the name D’Annebault), hoisted up sails, and with his whole navy (which consisted of 200 ships and 26 gallies,) came forth into the seas, and arrived on the coast of Sussex, before Bright Hampstead, and set certain of his soldiers on land to burn and spoil the country: but the beacons were fired and the inhabitants thereabouts came down so thick, that the Frenchmen were driven to their ships with loss of diverse of their numbers, so that they did little hurt there.’

The attempted landing at Brighton was thus met with swift resistance from the local populace, rallied by beacon fires. Their response was so determined that the French could do ‘little hurt there’ and were quickly forced back to their ships, having suffered losses. Again, it is said that ‘the inhabitants thereabouts came down so thick’ that the French attack was foiled before much damage could be done.

The text also refers to a remarkable ‘Picture Map’ from the time, providing further detail about the attack: ‘The number of ships attacking the town is twenty-two; and the largest, probably the Admiral’s, lying nearest the shore, has four masts. . . Eight of the latter [galleys] are on shore, and the armed men from them have disembarked on the beach, the place where they landed being inscribed, - “here landed the galleys”.’

This map apparently depicts the full force of the attempted raid. Details include: ‘On shore the houses under the cliffe are on fire; from the upper town also flames are issuing from almost every house.’ The town at that time had ‘five rows of houses running from north to south’ with a town field in the centre and a prominent road east, ‘about the spot now occupied by the Old Steine,’ labeled as ‘the valcy comyng from Lewes town to Brighthampston.’

Defensive preparations and geography are highlighted: ‘On this road and on the hill adjacent bodies of armed men are marching towards the town.’ Key townspeople landmarks are noted, such as the ‘town fyre cag’ (likely for signalling), the church encircled by praying or armed townsfolk, and two ‘wynde mylles’ to the north, near ‘the bekon of the towne’.

The response of the local gentry and yeomen is emphasised both in the narrative and in map notes suggesting rapid mustering in defense: ‘As this road approaches the beach, it is inscribed, - “Upon this west pt may lond cm psones (100,000 persons) unletted by any pvision there.” ’

The attempted raid on Brighton thus achieved very little for the French: they were repulsed with ‘diverse of their numbers’ lost, while the locals ‘quickly distressed them’. Their attack was notable for the rapid civilian and militia resistance that foiled their intent to burn or pillage the town. The French then moved on to other nearby targets, but Brighton’s quick and effective defence seems to stand out in this record as a testament to the vigilance and bravery of its 16th-century residents.

This vivid account is matched by the surviving picture map, produced at the same time - July 1545 - and now held in the British Library under the reference Cotton Augustus I. i. 18. This large-scale, hand-coloured map depicts the French fleet offshore, the disembarkation of troops, burning houses, beacon fires, and armed townspeople rallying in defence. It is thought the map was likely commissioned as part of Henry VIII’s broader programme of coastal surveillance and fortification.

Floods in Pool Valley

One hundred and seventy years ago today, on 17 July 1850, Brighton suffered a violent storm - with thunder and lightening - that soon flooded parts of the town, notably Pool Valley, just across the road from the beach and pier. This fabulous image - courtesy of the Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton & Hove - was first published by F. B. Mason (Repository of Arts, 120 King’s Road, Brighton) in August 1850. A detailed report of the weather and damage appeared the following day in the Brighton Gazette (available online with subscription) as follows:

‘Storm of Last Evening

A storm of lightning, thunder, and rain of almost unexampled violence broke over Brighton last evening. During the whole of Monday, Tuesday, and yesterday, the temperature had been very high; on Monday the thermometer in the shade reached nearly to 80. Indications of a coming tempest were discernible throughout the whole of yesterday afternoon, and about a quarter to seven it burst, after a few preparatory grumbles, apparently over the centre of the town. The lightning and thunder were terrific; the flashes of blinding brilliancy were followed the next instant by the crash, and the buildings were shaken to their foundations. The rain came down, not in poetic but in literal torrents, and the widest streets were turned into streams over their whole width. Even the most apparently secure roofs were not proof against the attacks of the water; the rain came through in numerous houses, flooding the apartments. In our own office, operations were suspended, and during the height of the storm the probability of the publication of the present sheet assumed a very dubious aspect. The violence of the storm lasted about an hour.

After the above general observations had been written, we learned the following details. Pool Valley, as is known to all the residents of Brighton and to most of its visitors far and near, is situated in the lowest part of Brighton. It is at the back of the Royal York Hotel; and years ago, previous to the construction of the Grand Junction Road, which now forms a barrier between it and the sea, it was constantly overflowed at high tides. Within a few minutes of the commencement of the storm, the water poured from three different sources - namely, from East Street, the Steyne, and the Marine Parade - the streams bringing with them the overflowings of North Street, the Marine Parade, St. James’s Street, and Edward Street, into the Valley; and the result was that Creak’s baths, Strong’s painter’s shop, an adjoining carpenter’s shop, two small houses, and the Wellington Inn were flooded.

The contents of the cellars and shops were immediately floated into the street; and as the storm continued and the accumulated water poured down, two of the three shops at the back of the York Hotel and forming a portion of the building were also inundated. The shops are occupied by Mr Pegg, wine merchant, and his brother, a fishmonger. The third shop, occupied by Mr Donald, farrier, escaped a similar visitation from the fact of its being approached by a flight of steps. In rushing from the Steyne, one of the streams entered and deluged in succession the area of Mr Cordy Burrows, surgeon, the shops of Mrs Streeter, baker, Mr Smith, stationer, and Madame Dorney, milliner, and approached within an inch of the shop doors of Mr Bruce, engraver, and Mr Martin, ornamental hairworker.

When the water first rushed into the Valley an attempt was made to give it exit by keeping clear the sink gratings by means of brooms; but this attempt was immediately and necessarily abandoned. Boats were then brought to the spot, first one, then a second, and then a third, for the purpose of securing the floating property; and as the depth of the water increased and the inmates of the houses were driven to the upper stories to aid their escape, the women and children uttered piercing cries from the windows for assistance. Fortunately, however, the water did not rise to such a height as to render the latter course expedient.’

The text on the image above reads: ‘On Wednesday morning, July 17th 1850, Brighton and immediate neighbourhood was visited with a remarkable deluge of rain, which, descending in continuous torrents, for several hours, speedily converted the low lying ground of Pool Valley, and other parts of the Town, into what appeared, as represented in the above view, an extensive lake.’ Also along the bottom margin are: ‘Published by F.B. Mason, Repository of Arts, 120 King’s Road, Brighton, Augt 19th 1850.’

A poorer reproduction of the image and a brief summary of the weather events, can be found on page 67 of Eileen Hollingdale’s Old Brighton (George Nobbs Publishing, 1979).

A long RNLI weekend

RNLI volunteers have been busy along Brighton Beach during the last few days. Over the weekend, the crews launched five times in 48 hours, a press release details, dealing with everything from people blown offshore on inflatables to paddleboarders venturing far out to sea.

The first task came at 7.30pm last Friday when the crew launched to reports of a person in the water clinging to an orange float near the West Pier. The lifeboat quickly located a man who was fishing from his stand-up paddleboard. On the return journey, at around dusk, the crew spotted two paddleboarders approximately 1.25 nautical miles offshore. The pair were attempting to reach the wind farm in failing light. They had no communication devices, no lifejackets, no food or water, and were dressed only in T-shirts and shorts. With conditions deteriorating and darkness falling, the crew persuaded them to come aboard and towed their boards back to the beach.

A third task that evening involved a dinghy with paddlers waving for attention. While this turned out to be a case of poor paddling technique rather than distress, it demonstrated the importance of raising the alarm early. Saturday lunchtime, the crew launched to search for a 27-year-old man who had been missing for over 90 minutes after swimming east of Brighton Palace Pier. His belongings were found unattended on the beach by his friend, prompting a swift and coordinated response. Brighton RNLI carried out shoreline and offshore searches, while RNLI Lifeguards and Coastguard teams scoured the beach, and a rescue helicopter conducted an aerial search. The swimmer was eventually located and assisted onshore by the lifeguards and Coastguard.

Just hours later, that evening, Brighton RNLI was called out again. Two people had earlier been brought ashore without lifejackets after using a jet ski, but later swam back out to retrieve the craft, which had been tied to a buoy. Concerned that they might attempt another unsafe recovery, the crew returned the two individuals and their jet ski to Brighton Marina. The incident served as a reminder of how even seemingly short trips on the water can escalate without proper equipment or planning.

Finally, on Monday, at 1.24am, Brighton RNLI launched following a police request after bloodied clothing was discovered near the shore close to the i360. The crew carried out a thorough search of the area but were stood down after nothing was found. Back at the station, returning crew were met by five of the newest volunteer crew. They turned out in the early hours to help recover and clean the boat and to start learning how to respond to calls in the middle of the night safely.

These weekend call-outs were not unusual for the Brighton RNLI team. In 2024, Brighton RNLI responded to 61 incidents and were credited with saving two lives. Across Sussex, RNLI lifeboats carried out 475 launches last year, reflecting how busy the coastline can be.

Lifeboat operations manager Charlie Dannreuther said: ‘These launches highlight just how varied, and how demanding, a weekend on the coast can be. They also reinforced some vital safety messages. Whether you’re paddleboarding, using a jet ski, or going for a swim, being prepared is essential. Always wear a lifejacket when on the water. Take a means of calling for help, like a mobile phone in a waterproof pouch or a VHF radio. Check the weather forecast and tide times. Don’t head out in fading light. And always tell someone your plan.’

The Royal Albion on fire

It’s two years ago today that fire did for the Royal Albion Hotel on Brighton’s seafront, gutting much of the historic building and leaving a charred shell where once royalty and Edwardian high society had gathered.

The Royal Albion was first opened in 1826 as one of Brighton’s earliest purpose-built seaside hotels (see Wikipedia). Its original architect was Amon Henry Wilds, with later additions expanding its elegant frontage along the seafront. In the early 20th century it was famously managed by Harry Preston - a larger-than-life figure who transformed it into a glittering social hub, hosting the likes of Edward VII, who enjoyed the discreet pleasures of Brighton society. (See also Brighton beach as runway!) Over the decades, the hotel weathered wartime bombing and changing fashions, remaining a familiar if faded landmark opposite the Palace Pier.

On the evening of 15 July 2023, flames were seen leaping from the fourth floor of the building (owned by Britannia Hotels). Emergency services quickly responded, with a hundred guests and staff evacuated and roads cordoned off around the Old Steine. Despite the swift arrival of more than a dozen fire appliances, the blaze raged through the roof and upper floors. Firefighters worked through the night to contain the flames, even as part of the building collapsed, sending up plumes of smoke visible across the city.

In October 2023, following an investigation by East Sussex Fire and Rescue Service, it was concluded the fire had most likely been caused by a discarded cigarette (see Brighton and Hove News). This came despite the hotel having passed a thorough fire safety audit just the previous September, which praised its ‘preventative and protective measures’, ‘effective emergency plan and policy’, and commended staff for their ‘professional and pro-active attitude towards their fire safety responsibilities.’ A later report into the blaze found its rapid spread was fuelled by hidden voids, traditional lath and plaster walls, dry and ageing timber window frames, and the driving wind off the Channel.

By February 2025, the situation had deteriorated so far that when an engineer warned the fragile remains of the building and its scaffolding were ‘at risk of catastrophic failure,’ the Council closed part of the A259. 

According to a BBC report from May 2025, Brighton & Hove City Council is actively pursuing further action to recover £1.2 million still owed by Britannia Hotels for emergency safety and demolition work at the Royal Albion Hotel following the July 2023 fire. The council initially spent £1.7 million to secure the site after the fire, but Britannia Hotels has so far only repaid £500,000. The council is now considering ‘alternative avenues for recovery’ to expedite repayment of the outstanding debt. Otherwise, discussions between the council and Britannia Hotels about the site's future are ongoing but remain at an early stage.

Cucumber Bench restoration

Hove’s ‘Cucumber Benches’, so named for their green colour and double-sided design, are a familiar sight on the Hove seafront. As has been widely reported in the press, these benches are currently undergoing restoration as part of a social value scheme initiated by Brighton & Hove City Council. The restoration - which will make use of a new MDF material and Seafront Green paint - involves a collaboration between the council’s contractors, local businesses, and offenders participating in the Community Payback Scheme.

The benches, traditionally made of wood, are being repaired and repainted with the help of R. J. Dance, a local highways contractor, and local building merchants and paint suppliers. The Community Payback Service provides manpower for sanding and decorating, offering offenders a chance to contribute to their community. The initiative aims to revitalise the seafront and provide a visible demonstration of how offenders can contribute to their local area. According to the council, the benches have been surveyed and work is scheduled to begin later this month. (See also BBC News.)

The history of the benches themselves is linked to the development of Hove’s seafront, particularly the Hove Esplanade. In 1903, a wire fence was replaced with a granite kerb and iron fence, and recesses were created to accommodate seats. These seats, initially made of teak and later with glazed screens, proved popular and were expanded upon with additional orders in later years.

In a press release, Councillor Birgit Miller, Cabinet member for Culture, Heritage and Tourism, was quoted as follows: 

‘Maintaining our seafront comes with many challenges, not least the scale of the task at hand. Our teams are responsible for 13km of seafront, including 6km of railings, 18 shelters and 19 cucumber benches. A comprehensive seafront maintenance plan will be published shortly, but I’m delighted to see this element of our strategy getting underway soon. We really value the commitment to improving our city that contractors like R. J. Dance and many other local businesses continue to show.  

Involving people from the Community Payback Service also provides a visible and tangible way for offenders to contribute to their community. We’re hoping to work with more businesses and recruit further volunteers as the scheme progresses. This is a creative solution to the challenges around seafront maintenance and I’m really looking forward to seeing the benches back to their best.’

According to Arnold Laver, timber merchants, prior to this announcement, Brighton council trialled the use of Mediate Tricoya (a new type of extremely durable MDF) for refurbishment of a single bench. Barbara Goodfellow, a council building surveyor stated: ‘We have a lot of small buildings and furniture along our very long seafront promenade. The trial of Medite Tricoya proved its suitability for a harsh coastal environment.’ Arnold Laver also noted that the refurbishment trial used Dulux paints - Seafront Green (Hollybush) and Dark Brown.

More support for Kings Arches

Some of Brighton’s crumbling seafront arches are set for a long-awaited transformation following the Department for Transport’s green light on 8 July to release £21 million from its Major Road Network fund. The money will pay for the next two major phases of the A259 King’s Road Highway Structures Renewal Programme, a project said to be vital for safeguarding the upper promenade and coast road that run above dozens of ageing Victorian arches. Much of the finance will go towards reinforcing the arches since these act as a viaduct supporting the road.

Brighton & Hove City Council has been working on plans to restore the arches for over a decade, prompted by structural failures that first made headlines in 2012. The most dramatic incident came in 2014, when the Fortune of War arch partially collapsed, forcing emergency repairs. Subsequent inspections revealed that many sections of the Victorian seafront were in similar peril. The arches not only house small businesses but also support the A259, which carries up to 36,000 vehicles, 30,000 pedestrians and 2,500 cyclists daily.

Council documents, planning applications and engineering reports, which have been repeatedly cited in local newspapers including the Argus and Brighton and Hove News, set out the detailed proposals. They show that Phase 4 of the scheme will rebuild the arches between the King’s Road playground and the Brighton Music Hall, while Phase 5 will reconstruct even more arches just west of the Shelter Hall. Together these phases are expected to cost around £27 million. The council will top up the government’s grant with local funds.

The rebuilt structures will use a reinforced concrete frame on piled foundations to provide modern load capacity, concealed behind brick façades designed to match the originals. The listed cast-iron balustrades along the upper promenade will be replaced with replicas, slightly raised to meet current safety regulations. The works also promise better ventilation and more efficient services, including the installation of discreet air-source heat pumps. Much of this information comes from the planning submissions and technical statements lodged with the city council, as well as design papers prepared by Project Centre, an arm of Marston Holdings, which is overseeing the engineering.

Construction is expected to start on Phase 4 now and run for about a year, followed by Phase 5 from May 2026 over roughly 18 months. During this time the A259 carriageway and lower promenade will remain open, though parts of the upper promenade may close intermittently. The council has pledged that businesses occupying the arches will either be temporarily relocated or have the chance to return to upgraded premises.

Local leaders have argued for years that the investment is critical not only to protect Brighton’s most famous road from collapse but also to secure the long-term future of the seafront economy. Earlier phases of the arches restoration, including around the i360 and Shelter Hall, have already demonstrated how modern structural interventions can be blended with heritage preservation.

The Great Omani

Twenty-five years ago, Brighton’s seafront bade a flamboyant farewell to one of its most extraordinary residents: Ronald Cunningham, better known by his stage name, ‘The Great Omani’. On 10 July 2000 - his 85th birthday - Omani staged what he declared would be his final stunt, astonishing a crowd at the Norfolk Hotel by escaping from handcuffs while both his arms were set ablaze with lighter fluid. Frail, in a wheelchair, and undergoing treatment for kidney dialysis and cancer, he ensured that his last act was as daring and theatrical as the countless spectacles he had performed along Brighton’s historic front - many of them centred on the West Pier, the backdrop to some of his most audacious feats.

Living modestly at 10 Norfolk Street, Cunningham was a true local legend whose improbable career as a stuntman and escapologist spanned nearly half a century. Born into a wealthy family, he drifted through his early years without ambition until a twist of fate changed everything. As he browsed in a London bookshop, a volume of Houdini’s tricks fell from a shelf and landed squarely on his foot. ‘That moment changed my life,’ he later said. Taking it as a sign, he resolved on the spot to become a stuntman, adopting the name ‘The Great Omani’ simply because, in his words, it sounded ‘exotic and exciting, just like Houdini’s’.

His acts were as audacious as his origin story. Omani became the first man to travel from London to Brighton on a bed of nails, then made the return journey entombed in a ton of concrete. In a heartfelt homage to his idol, he staged a dramatic underwater escape from Brighton’s West Pier - echoing Houdini’s own feats of the 1920s. According to The Argus, ‘The Great Omani could be regularly seen jumping from the end of the West Pier, wrapped in chains and on fire’. His repertoire included smashing bottles on his throat with a hammer, diving through flaming hoops, and extricating himself from burning structures - stunts performed with a blend of swagger and scrupulous preparation. Remarkably, across his long career, he was only seriously injured twice, both times due to mistakes by assistants: once when a cardboard house was set alight with petrol poured inside, another time when a leaking fuel can caused minor burns during a flaming dive.

That final spectacle on his 85th birthday was meant to be his swan song (see this video at Youtube - the source of the screenshot above), yet in true Omani fashion he couldn’t resist also marking his 90th birthday with a last defiant farewell (see My Brighton and Hove). He died in 2007. Further information is available online at Wikipedia, but also in The Crowd Roars - Tales from the life of a professional stuntman The Great Omani which can be freely downloaded as a pdf from QueenSpark Books.