I confess I like tar

‘I like to go down on the beach among the fishing boats, and to recline on the shingle by a smack when the wind comes gently from the west, and the low wave breaks but a few yards from my feet. I like the occasional passing scent of pitch: they are melting it close by. I confess I like tar: one’s hands smell nice after touching ropes.’ This was written about Brighton Beach by John Richard Jefferies, an English nature writer born on this day in 1848. Although not well remembered, he turned his attention to Brighton in at least two books of essays - Nature Near London and The Open Air.

Jefferies was born on 6 November 1848 at Coate Farm, near Swindon in Wiltshire. His early years were steeped in rural observation - he studied the hedges, brooks and fields around him with a sharp eye and lyrical sensibility. He worked as a local journalist - reporting for the North Wiltshire Herald and the Wiltshire and Gloucestershire Standard - and began to publish articles on natural history and rural life in the Pall Mall Gazette and other London papers. In 1874 he married Jessie Baden, the daughter of a neighbouring farmer at Syde near Cirencester, and the couple had three children, though the third died young.

Jefferies earned his living precariously as a freelance essayist and novelist; the success of The Gamekeeper at Home (1878) brought him a wider readership and regular commissions from magazines such as Longman’s, The Graphic and The Standard. His blend of realism, spiritual intensity and precise nature description made him one of the leading English nature writers of the Victorian age. Although his name is most often linked with Wiltshire, he moved south in later life, seeking sea-air and convalescence on the Sussex coast. He died in August 1887 at Goring-by-Sea in West Sussex.

In his last years, he published two books of essays: Nature Near London (Chatto & Windus, 1883) and The Open Air (Chatto & Windus, 1885) both with lyrical passages about Brighton and its seaside. These first two are from a chapter in Nature Near London called ‘To Brighton’.

‘The clean dry brick pavements are scarcely less crowded than those of London, but as you drive through the town, now and then there is a glimpse of a greenish mist afar off between the houses. The green mist thickens in one spot almost at the horizon; or is it the dark nebulous sails of a vessel? Then the foam suddenly appears close at hand - a white streak seems to run from house to house, reflecting the sunlight: and this is Brighton.’

‘Westwards, a mile beyond Hove, beyond the coast-guard cottages, turn aside from the road, and go up on the rough path along the ridge of shingle. The hills are away on the right, the sea on the left; the yards of the ships in the basin slant across the sky in front. With a quick, sudden heave the summer sea, calm and gleaming, runs a little way up the side of the groyne, and again retires. There is scarce a gurgle or a bubble, but the solid timbers are polished and smooth where the storms have worn them with pebbles. From a grassy spot ahead a bird rises, marked with white, and another follows it; they are wheatears; they frequent the land by the low beach in the autumn.’

The more extensive passages below are from ‘Sunny Brighton’ in The Open Air.

‘Some of the old streets opening out of the King's Road look very pleasant on a sunny day. They run to the north, so that the sun over the sea shines nearly straight up them, and at the farther end, where the houses close in on higher ground, the deep blue sky descends to the rooftrees. The old red tiles, the red chimneys, the green jalousies, give some colour; and beneath there are shadowy corners and archways. They are not too wide to whisper across, for it is curious that to be interesting a street must be narrow, and the pavements are but two or three bricks broad. These pavements are not for the advantage of foot passengers; they are merely to prevent cart-wheels from grating against the houses. There is nothing ancient or carved in these streets, they are but moderately old, yet turning from the illuminated sea it is pleasant to glance up them as you pass, in their stillness and shadow, lying outside the inconsiderate throng walking to and fro, and contrasting in their irregularity with the set facades of the front. Opposite, across the King's Road, the mastheads of the fishing boats on the beach just rise above the rails of the cliff, tipped with fluttering pennants, or fish-shaped vanes changing to the wind.’

‘I like to go down on the beach among the fishing boats, and to recline on the shingle by a smack when the wind comes gently from the west, and the low wave breaks but a few yards from my feet. I like the occasional passing scent of pitch: they are melting it close by. I confess I like tar: one’s hands smell nice after touching ropes. It is more like home down on the beach here; the men are doing something real, sometimes there is the clink of a hammer; behind me there is a screen of brown net, in which rents are being repaired; a big rope yonder stretches as the horse goes round, and the heavy smack is drawn slowly up over the pebbles. The full curves of the rounded bows beside me are pleasant to the eye, as any curve is that recalls those of woman. Mastheads stand up against the sky, and a loose rope swings as the breeze strikes it; a veer of the wind brings a puff of smoke from the funnel of a cabin, where some one is cooking, but it is not disagreeable, like smoke from a house chimney-pot; another veer carries it away again, - depend upon it the simplest thing cooked there is nice. Shingle rattles as it is shovelled up for ballast - the sound of labour makes me more comfortably lazy. They are not in a hurry, nor “chivy” over their work either; the tides rise and fall slowly, and they work in correspondence. No infernal fidget and fuss. Wonder how long it would take me to pitch a pebble so as to lodge on the top of that large brown pebble there? I try, once now and then.’

‘When this peculiar bank appears at Brighton it is an almost certain sign of continued fine weather, and I have noticed the same thing elsewhere; once particularly it remained fine after this appearance despite every threat the sky could offer of a storm. All the threats came to nothing for three weeks, not even thunder and lightning could break it up, - “deceitful flashes,” as the Arabs say; for, like the sons of the desert, just then the farmers longed for rain on their parched fields. To me, while on the beach among the boats, the value of these clouds lies in their slowness of movement, and consequent effect in soothing the mind. Outside the hurry and drive of life a rest comes through the calm of nature. As the swell of the sea carries up the pebbles, and arranges the largest farthest inland, where they accumulate and stay unmoved, so the drifting of the clouds, and the touch of the wind, the sound of the surge, arrange the molecules of the mind in still layers. It is then that a dream fills it, and a dream is sometimes better than the best reality. Laugh at the idea of dreaming where there is an odour of tar if you like, but you see it is outside intolerable civilization. It is a hundred miles from the King’s Road, though but just under it.’

‘There is a scheme on foot for planking over the ocean, beginning at the bottom of West Street. An immense central pier is proposed, which would occupy the only available site for beaching the smacks. If carried out, the whole fishing industry must leave Brighton,- to the fishermen the injury would be beyond compensation, and the aspect of Brighton itself would be destroyed. Brighton ought to rise in revolt against it.’

The portrait above is from Wikipedia, and the fishing boat image is from the collection of Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton & Hove.

Groyne works due to start

Brighton and Hove Council have released further documents concerning the latest phase of the project along Kings Esplanade, Hove, to remove seven existing groynes (six concrete, one timber) and install nine new timber groynes, replenish the shingle beach with 160,000 m³ of marine-dredged material, and raise a 50-metre section of the King Alfred sea wall with reinstated heritage railings. The project forms part of the Brighton Marina to River Adur Flood and Coastal Erosion Risk Management (FCERM) Scheme, a partnership between Brighton & Hove City Council, Adur District Council, Shoreham Port, the Environment Agency and the Western Esplanade Management Company. See More shingle and better groynes.

The planning application, submitted 28 October 2025 by JBA Consulting for Brighton & Hove City Council, seeks to discharge conditions 4-13 of permission BH2024/02513, including biodiversity, archaeology, and intertidal survey requirements. Together these documents confirm that the Hove frontage is entering a major, environmentally-governed reconstruction phase - balancing climate-defence engineering with commitments to sustainability, ecology, and public amenity. The works - to start in December - will form part of a strategy designed to provide a 1-in-200-year standard of protection for at least fifty years, addressing sea-level rise and erosion pressures.

The Construction Environmental and Social Management Plan (Van Oord, revised 24 October 2025) outlines how the year-long build will proceed from December 2025, with the main compound on Western Lawns and a smaller ‘plant refuge’ near the Southern Water outfall. Noise and vibration will be monitored weekly, and dredged shingle pumped ashore and profiled daily to avoid overnight stockpiles. The plan identifies multiple sensitivities - residential blocks, heritage seafront architecture, bathing-water quality, marine ecology, and a buried medieval settlement - and prescribes detailed mitigation covering noise, dust, lighting, waste, fuel storage, invasive species, and archaeological protection.

An ecological baseline survey by JBA Consulting (September 2025) recorded limited species diversity typical of a high-energy shingle foreshore. Algal and invertebrate colonisation was largely confined to the lower sections of the groynes, where Ulva seaweeds, winkles and barnacles dominated, and small mussel colonies occupied gaps between planks. The report recommends using Integrated Greening of Grey Infrastructure (IGGI) features - rope wraps, honeycomb blocks, and concrete ‘Vertipools’ - to encourage marine growth and deliver biodiversity net gain in line with the Environment Act 2021. These eco-textures will be fitted to the new groynes, partly as an educational resource under the city’s Our City Our World programme.

Half Blind’s Horrible Halloween

Daltons on Brighton Beach, just east of the Palace Pier, plays host tonight to ‘Half Blind’s Horrible Halloween’ a seafront celebration of Brighton’s loudest and strangest. The event, staged by local DIY promoter Half Blind Promotions, promises an unruly mix of metal, punk and alternative energy, all spiked with Halloween atmosphere. Doors open at seven, costumes are encouraged, and anyone wandering down to the arches should expect noise, sweat and spectacle until late.

Headlining are Primal Damnation, a five-piece thrash band forged in Brighton’s metal underground. Their sound, built on classic speed-metal riffs and relentless rhythm, nods to the old school while staying raw enough to rattle the room. The band have built a loyal following on the local circuit, playing with the kind of grit that the sea air seems to sharpen.

Sharing the bill are Dunce, a fast-rising punk outfit with a sly experimental edge. Their recent material veers between furious guitar work and sudden bursts of absurd humour, a collision that keeps audiences off-balance. Creeping Embers, also Brighton-based, brings a newer spark to the scene, their music thick with distortion and youthful intent. Bats in the Belfry add a touch of gothic theatre, fusing punk drive with macabre imagery perfectly suited to Halloween night.

Rounding off the line-up is Puppet Midnight, an angular indie-punk solo act built around bass, loop, and spoken-word fragments. The songs mix myth, madness and dark wit - tales of puppets, animals and burning mattresses delivered with a kind of melodic menace. It’s an artist who seems tailor-made for Daltons’ close-packed stage, where nothing ever feels quite contained.

Half Blind Promotions, the outfit behind the night, has spent recent years cultivating Brighton’s underground from the ground up, offering stages to acts too strange or too noisy for the mainstream. The name ‘Half Blind’ may sound like a throwaway joke, but it carries a streak of irony - a nod to seeing things differently, to championing bands the rest of the city might overlook.

As the tide rises along the beach, Daltons will glow with orange light, fake cobwebs, and the echo of guitars bouncing off the arches. ‘Half Blind’s Horrible Halloween’ promises to be another small, glorious act of local defiance - proof if you like that Brighton’s musical heart still beats hardest in its basement bars and beachfront haunts. (See also King of the Slot Machines.)

Guest: Brighton Beach, Windsor, Ontario

Brighton Beach in Windsor, Ontario, occupies a solitary strip along the Detroit River, metres from the US/Canada border. It lies within a neighbourhood that has become almost entirely an industrial landscape. The physical beach was never a grand resort but a working-class destination, with a scrubby, sandy waterfront bordered by scattered cottages, unpaved lanes, and the smokestacks of industry visible upriver and down. For decades, the water’s edge was a place for fishing, mooring small boats, and impromptu summer picnics - the sand blending into patches of grass and, in later years, the untidy sprawl left behind as homes disappeared.

Windsor’s Brighton Beach has kept a wild, transitional character. Waves lapped the narrow strand, overlooked by remnants of wooden docks and, eventually, the steel infrastructure of major industrial plants. The physical shoreline shifted over the years due to both natural river currents and city-led expropriation and demolition. By the 2000s, the beach was bordered more by silence and wildflowers than by families, except for the occasional urban explorer, local birdwatcher, or fisherman. Yet the riverfront view - freighters sliding past beneath blue or stormy skies - has remained an enduring, haunting place.

Historic and contemporary photographs give a stark sense of this shifting landscape. The most comprehensive series is in ‘Brighton Beach Through The Years’ on International Metropolis, which features aerial images from 1949 through 2006, charting the steady disappearance of homes and roads as the area reverted to prairie and open shore. There are also evocative ground-level photos and travelogues from blog photographers - such as JB’s Warehouse & Curio Emporium - who captured the crumbling streets and river’s edge as late as the 2010s. The adjacent photo, for example, carries the caption: ‘Brighton Beach continues to offer up the finest in abandoned couches. Treasure hunters or connoisseurs of neglected boat hulls, car seats and furniture would have smiles on their faces after a quick scouting trip of the neighbourhood.’

The veteran run to Brighton

At sunrise this morning, more than 400 pre-1905 motor cars were scheduled to set off from Hyde Park for the 98th London to Brighton Veteran Car Run, the world’s longest-running motoring event. The run commemorates the original ‘Emancipation Run’ of 14 November 1896, which celebrated the passing of the Locomotives on Highways Act. That law raised the speed limit for light locomotives from four to fourteen miles per hour and abolished the requirement for a man with a red flag to walk ahead of every vehicle.

Organised by the Royal Automobile Club, this year’s event covered a route of about sixty miles, following the traditional course from London through Croydon, Redhill, Crawley and Burgess Hill before descending into Brighton. It is not a race: the event is open only to vehicles built before 1905, and every entrant who crosses the finish line within daylight is considered a victor. The finishing stretch took the cars directly onto the Brighton seafront, Madeira Drive once again serving as the ceremonial end-point. 

The run’s tradition of finishing on Madeira Drive dates back to the early 1900s, when the event was revived after the First World War. Over the decades it has only rarely been interrupted - by fuel shortages, war, and once by the pandemic. This year’s run also honoured the 125th anniversary of the Royal Automobile Club’s 1000-Mile Trial of 1900, another milestone in the story of early motoring. 

This morning’s first arrival on Madeira Drive was vehicle number 046, a 1900 Renaux tricycle driven by Clive Pettit (picture at top). The lightweight three-wheeler crossed the finish line just before 11 a.m., its simple design and reliability giving it an early advantage on the 60-mile run. The second vehicle and the first four-wheeled car to reach the seafront was number 018, an 1898 Stephens dogcart (pictured above), which rolled in at exactly 11 - later than usual, possibly because of early morning bad weather.

The run has acquired its own folklore. Many entrants and passengers dress in Edwardian costume; breakdowns are frequent and often met with good humour and clouds of steam; and the sound of sputtering engines and brass horns evokes the infancy of motoring. The 1953 film Genevieve (see film still) has immortalised the event’s charm and chaos, and even today the scene of creaking, smoke-puffing machines rolling into Brighton beneath the cliffs of Madeira Drive retains something of that cinematic magic. 

Among the machines entered in this year’s London to Brighton Veteran Car Run are: 

- an 1894 Benz, a single-cylinder 1.5 horsepower pioneer from Germany driven by Hermann Layher, its exposed brass fittings and carriage-style tiller steering embodying the dawn of motoring; 

- an 1898 Léon Bollée, the elegant French tricar whose sloping body and chain drive reflecte the ingenuity of fin-de-siècle engineering;

- the British Motor Museum’s 1899 Wolseley, one of the earliest four-wheelers designed by Herbert Austin;

- a newly restored Opel Darracq making its debut, representing a rare Franco-German collaboration from the earliest years of the automobile.

Brighton Swimming Club

On 4 May 1860 a handful of regular sea-bathers met at the Jolly Fisherman in Market Street and founded Brighton Swimming Club, today recognised as the country’s oldest continuously running swimming club. The pioneers had been bathing from the beach near the Lion Mansions on Grand Junction Parade in the late 1850s; by formalising their group they introduced subscriptions, rules and early safety practices to what had been an informal pastime. Founder members included George Brown and the celebrated one-legged swimmer and lifesaver John Henry Camp, whose motto, ‘I dare the waves a life to save’, reflected the club’s public-spirited character.

Through the 1860s and 1870s the club became a fixture of Brighton’s seafront life. Its members staged crowd-pleasing aquatic displays off the West Pier, including the much-reported raft ‘tea parties’, and they helped normalise sea swimming as recreation rather than therapy. Photographers recorded the swimmers’ culture, from informal 1860s beach portraits in drawers and top hats to later team images outside the club’s King’s Road Arches headquarters, where the address numbers changed over time as the seafront was renumbered. Membership grew rapidly from a dozen to several dozen within three years, mirroring Brighton’s boom as a resort.

By the early 1910s Brighton’s enthusiasm for sea swimming had become fully institutionalised. The Palace Pier built a £6,000 bathing station on piles of greenheart oak, complete with curtained changing cabins, rafts and spectator seating. When the new facility opened in June 1913, the Brighton Herald reported that the Brighton Swimming Club had been granted its own private quarters beneath the pier, ‘handsomely equipped’ and inaugurated with a special fête. Members staged diving and ornamental swimming displays, with prizes for fancy diving and a 65-foot high dive by the visiting champion Professor Oscar Dickman of Australia. The paper called it ‘one of the most attractive swimming resorts ever seen in Brighton’, a mark of how far the club had evolved from an informal gathering of hardy bathers to a centrepiece of civic leisure.

Traditions established in the Victorian period proved remarkably durable. The club’s Christmas Day swim is documented back to the 1880s and became a hardy local ritual, interrupted only by beach closures in wartime. From the later 19th century, as public baths opened, the club broadened beyond salt water to embrace pool training and competition, while still maintaining its daily sea section. Water polo, diving and what would become artistic swimming all found a home in the club’s expanding programme. Women’s swimming developed alongside, with a separate Brighton Ladies Swimming Club founded on 2 December 1891; that organisation evolved into today’s Brighton Dolphin SC. By the early 20th century mixed bathing had become acceptable in Brighton, but the distinct women’s club shows how the city nurtured female swimmers on their own terms as participation widened.

The inter-war years added a signature race to the calendar. In 1936 Brighton Corporation donated a trophy for an annual West Pier to Palace Pier swim, and the ‘Pier to Pier’ became a midsummer highlight. Competitors once dived from the West Pier itself; since that pier’s closure the start moved to the adjacent beach. Apart from wartime and occasional rough-sea cancellations, the race has run ever since, drawing Olympians, Channel swimmers and club stalwarts to cover roughly a kilometre along the front.

War brought the only sustained break in the club’s daily sea routine, when beaches were mined and barred. Peace restored the rhythms of early-morning swims, competitions and community service, with club volunteers continuing the long tradition of watchfulness on a lively, sometimes treacherous shore. In the 21st century the surge of interest in open-water swimming put Brighton’s oldest sporting institution back at the centre of a national trend, while heritage work under the ‘Floating Memories’ banner secured and interpreted archives stretching to the club’s first minute books.

Today, the club’s sea-swimming section operates from its long-established base, The Arch, on the lower promenade east of Palace Pier. Open every day of the year, it provides showers, changing space and board storage for members who swim daily in all seasons. Annual membership begins each April, with fees covering upkeep of the seafront facilities; when capacity is reached a waiting list applies. The section’s swimmers range from casual dippers to long-distance enthusiasts, many training for events such as the Pier to Pier race or Channel crossings. Despite the expansion of pool-based squads and other disciplines, the daily ritual of entering the sea from the club’s Arch headquarters remains the institution’s core tradition and the living link to its 1860 origins.

See also Sussex Women bathing allowed! and Photo History for more detail and photographs (inc the sepia image above).

Houdini’s West Pier stunt

The extraordinary escapologist Harry Houdini died 99 years ago today, on 31 October 1926. He appeared several times in Brighton and, on at least one occasion, performed a spectacular stunt from the West Pier. Many years later a young Ronald Cunningham - who would become The Great Omani - came across a second-hand copy of The Secrets of Houdini which inspired him to follow in the master’s footsteps - even to the extent of repeating the same stunt from the West Pier on the fiftieth anniversary of Houdini’s death.

Born Erik Weisz in Budapest in 1874, Houdini rose from vaudeville beginnings to become the world’s most famous escape artist, thrilling crowds with feats of endurance and ingenuity. In December 1904 he topped the bill at the Brighton Hippodrome, and local tradition records that as part of his visit he staged a shackled leap into the Channel from the West Pier, a publicity stunt that packed the promenade with spectators. He remained underwater for close to two minutes before surfacing free of chains.

The only source I can find for this event is a memoir written by Omani. In the memoir, he says he once met a retired theatre electrician, Bert Croyle, who claimed to have worked with Houdini and seen the West Pier stunt. I’ll let Omani tell the tale (from The Crowd Roars, QueenSpark Books, 1998).

Chapter: A salute to Houdini

Once it was my privilege to meet an elderly gentleman in his late seventies, by the name of Bert Croyle. In his early days he had worked in London as head electrician in many of the big variety theatres. He had worked with many famous artists and vaudeville stars of yesterday. Me knew the Ching Ling Soo, who met an untimely death on stage when presenting the ‘catching a ballet in the mouth’ trick. He also knew and had worked with the legendary Great Houdini. He told me that Houdini was a very pleasant and polite man to work with, though conceited and at times very temperamental. But then what great artist isn’t temperamental? 

During his tour of England, it appears Houdini had visited Brighton and had appeared top of the bill at the Brighton Hippodrome. Sadly, like many other theatres, the Hippodrome is now a Bingo Hall. Only the ghosts of yesterday tread the boards to the phantom music of bygone days. One day, Bert Croyle and I were sitting down sipping a glass of wine when he suddenly said. ‘You know. I actually saw Houdini perform his famous death jump from West Pier. This was a publicity stunt to advertise his show at the Brighton Hippodrome. He was handcuffed, chained and padlocked and jumped from the pier into the sea and escaped underwater in about two minutes. The pier was packed. What a showman he was that night. As always with Houdini, the theatre was sold out. I asked Bert how long ago it was that Houdini performed on the West Pier. ‘About fifty years ago,’ he replied. ‘Right,’ I said, you’ve just given me an idea for my next stunt. I will perform Houdini’s jump from where he performed it on the West Pier, with handcuffs and chains, as he performed it fifty years ago. I will present it as a salute to the memory of the world’s all time greatest escapologist.’ 

This was a very good story and I had agreed to sell it to a well known London agency called Features International as an exclusive. The morning before the stunt was due to take place, Bert Croyle and I had an interview with one of the BBC radio stations and we discussed the forthcoming stunt. One question the interviewer asked Bert was ‘Do you think that Omani is as good as Houdini? He has done some amazing things.’ Bert hesitated, turned to me and asked what I thought. ‘Simple,’ I said, ‘Houdini was the greatest of all time. Long after our names are forgotten he will still be a legend.’ ‘You may be right,’ said Bert, ‘but Omani is the best we have got today.’ 

Several years had passed since I had performed on the West Pier. It had changed owners and now belonged to the Métropole Hotel, Brighton. The morning of the stunt arrived and Frank Durham, a director of Features International, and his camera-girl arrived to pick me up at my house. With my suitcase packed with manacles, chains and a pair of bathing trunks, I got into his car and we headed for the West Pier.

On arrival we were in for a shock. A battery of about a dozen cameramen and reporters were waiting for us. A gathering of the media such as one might expect had the rumour got around that Dolly Parton was going to appear topless!’

See also The Great Omani. Picture credits: Wikipedia, Brighton Hippodrome, and ChatGPT.