Progress on the Madeira arches

With all 28 arches, more or less, dismantled, the Madeira Terraces restoration project (phase 1) remains on schedule to finish sometime in the middle of next year. However, Mike, a representative of the construction company J T Mackley & Co, speaking to a small public meeting in the Sea Lanes Club House this afternoon, insisted this timescale was only a target, and that if any of the integral pieces, once dismantled, are found to need replacing - as opposed to strengthening or repairing - this could delay the project significantly.

This project has been a long time in the coming (see Madeira Terrace restoration - hurrah!) but now that it is under way, progress is visible and tangible. It’s almost shocking to see the concrete sea wall - actually built decades before the cast iron terraces were ever planned - with all the turquoise painted cast iron terracing removed. Mike explained that everything has gone reasonably well so far, some aspects easier than expected, others more complex. The final arch (of the 28 being restored in this phase) he said, should be down next week. He also gave some insights into the complex restoration process.

Every piece is being tagged, he said according to a system agreed with English Heritage, before cleaning and stress testing etc. - to ensure the pieces fit back together in the right position. The company does have access to plans drawn for the original construction (in late Victorian times!), but Mike said rather wryly, those plans were never adjusted according to what the builders actually built - making them an unreliable guide.

To date, the major pieces cleaned and tested have proved robust enough to re-use; however, Mike warned, if any, still to be tested, show defects that cannot be repaired, then they will need to be replaced. This is a job that would be carried out by one of Mackley’s partner in this project, a foundry works in Derby (very few places could handle this work, Mike explained) - and could delay completion by months. Among other aspects of the project, Mike talked a little about the rebuilding of the Maderia Lift which, he said was in the design stage and was ‘going quite well’.

The St Aubyns’ performers

Today marks the birthday of the highly successful music hall artist, Vesta Tilley, born on 13 May 1864. In the very last years of her long life, she had a flat in St Aubyns Mansions, King’s Esplanade, a grand late Victorian block that, unusually for most of the seafront, sits on the beach side of the coast road - with uninterrupted views of the pebbles and the sea. Half a century earlier - when the block was still new - another stage performer, Clara Butt, a contralto singer, also resided there for a while.

Matilda Alice Powles was born in Worcester, began performing at the age of three, and adopted the stage name Vesta Tilley by age 11. She was best known for her work as a male impersonator, gaining national fame for her convincing portrayals of men, particularly dandies, soldiers, and comic characters. She became one of the highest-paid and most influential entertainers of her time, peaking during the late Victorian and Edwardian eras. She was especially popular during WWI, when she performed patriotic songs and encouraged enlistment. After retiring in 1920 she published her autobiography Recollections of Vesta Tilley in 1934. She married Walter de Frece, a theatre impresario who later a Member of Parliament and knight, making her Lady de Frece. She lived in St Aubyns in her eighties, and died in London in 1952.

Some 50 years earlier, Clara Butt, born nearby in Southwick in 1872, lived in St Aubyns, then a new block of flats. She had trained as a singer at the Royal College of Music and had studied in Paris and Berlin. She became increasingly well known in the 1890s, particularly for her concert performances and oratorio work in pieces by Edward Elgar (who composed songs specifically for her, including Sea Pictures). She married the baritone Robert Kennerley Rumford in 1900, moving into St Aubyn’s for a few years before relocating to London. Butt toured internationally and - similar to Tilley in fact - was known for her patriotic (and charity) performances, especially during WWI. She was appointed Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire (DBE) in 1920 for her contributions to music and war efforts.

Dating from 1900, St Aubyns Mansions - painted yellow and white - was stuccoed after WWI. During WWII, it became part of HMS King Alfred (the name for the King Alfred leisure centre after being requisitioned by the Navy), but remained semi-derelict for several years after. Blue plaques for both Tilley and Butt were unveiled on the building by Brighton Council in 2011, though they were paid for by the residents and funds from the Brighton and Hove Commemorative Plaques Panel - see the BBC report. See also My Brighton and Hove.

Bring me . . . a sausage roll

[Scene: Brighton Beach. Two seagulls, Eric (taller, dafter) and Ernie (shorter, primmer), are perched near the ruins of the West Pier. With apologies to Morecambe and Wise.]

Eric: [pacing like a detective] I smell something, Ern. It’s in the air. The scent of danger. The perfume of peril. The unmistakable aroma . . . of pastry.

Ernie: Oh no. Not again. Last time you followed your beak, we ended up dive-bombing a hen party from Essex. I still have glitter in places no bird should sparkle.

Eric: I’ve refined my technique! Watch closely - I’ve developed a glide approach known only to the gulls of Monte Carlo.

Ernie: Monte Carlo? You’ve never even made it past Worthing.

Eric: I’ve got continental instincts, Ern. I’m like the James Bond of birds.

Ernie: You look more like the pigeon off the end of the pier.

Eric: That's rich, coming from a gull who’s scared of crisp packets.

Ernie: They rustle, Eric. They rustle menacingly.

[A tourist drops a sausage roll on the promenade. Both freeze.]

Eric: Did you see that?

Ernie: I’m not blind. Unlike your landing skills.

Eric: Right! Formation Gull Delta. You go left, I go elegant.

Ernie: Eric, no. We agreed - no more ‘interpretive flying’.

Eric: It’s not interpretive! It’s graceful. Like a feathered Bolshoi.

[Eric attempts a flamboyant leap off the wall, flaps wildly, and crashes into a deckchair.]

Ernie: Very Bolshoi, that. Nearly took out a pensioner.

Eric: It's all part of the act, Ern. People come to Brighton for entertainment.

Ernie: They don’t come for you flattening their nans!

[They both spot a child waving the sausage roll like a beacon.]

Eric: Right. This is it. All or nothing. If we time it just right . . .

Ernie: Eric?

Eric: Yes, Ern?

Ernie: The kid’s eaten it.

[Both birds stare mournfully at the now-empty wrapper.]

Eric: I blame the economy.

Ernie: I blame you.

[Cue them waddling off into the sunset, wings round each other, humming ‘Bring Me Sunshine . . .’]

Historic commercial vehicles

Historic commercial vehicles - vans, trucks, lorries, fire engines, coaches/buses, steam wagons, many in bright-coloured liveries - lit up the Brighton seafront today, west of the pier. Arriving from around 10 am, they rolled in along Madeira Drive, sometimes stuttering, sometimes juddering, but every one clean and bright as a button, loved and cherished for their connections with our past. 

The London to Brighton Historic Commercial Vehicle Run is an annual event celebrating Britain’s rich commercial motoring heritage. Organised by the Historic Commercial Vehicle Society (HCVS), the run showcases a diverse array of vintage commercial vehicles. The inaugural run took place on 13 May 1962, initiated by the HCVS, which itself was launched in 1958 following a rally at Beaulieu (where the National Motor Museum had been founded by Lord Montagu in 1952). The event has grown in popularity, with the 60th run in 2022 featuring 170 entrants. 

Last year, 2024, HCVS relocated the starting point of the run from Crystal Palace to Brooklands Museum in Weybridge, Surrey. The change was implemented to avoid London’s Ultra Low Emission Zone (ULEZ) and various lorry restrictions, making it more accessible for vintage vehicles. Participants now follow a route through Cobham, Leatherhead, Dorking, Redhill, Horley, Balcombe, Cuckfield, Burgess Hill before joining the A23 at a Pycombe for the last stage to Madeira Drive on the seafront in Brighton.

Photos of some of today’s participants:

(Above) - a preserved British double-decker bus (1930s-1950s), a type that became iconic in UK public transport, especially in cities like London. The livery advertises Tampon’s Ales and Ty-Phoo Tea, both classic British brands.

(Top left) - a historic steam traction engine, a type of self-propelled steam-powered vehicle used primarily for agricultural and heavy haulage work in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

(Top right) - a Fordson E83W, a light commercial vehicle produced by Ford between 1938 and 1957. This example is a flatbed pickup, often used for small deliveries and local business use. The E83W is known for its rounded cab, separate headlamps, and classic upright grille.

(Bottom left) - a classic single-deck coach, likely from the 1950s or 1960s, used for longer-distance travel and private hire. The red and cream paintwork is a common style for British and European coaches of the era, designed to be both attractive and easily identifiable.

(Bottom right) - a classic Scammell lorry, a British brand renowned for heavy haulage and specialist vehicles, particularly from the 1920s through the 1980s. Scammell vehicles of this era were notable for their robust construction and were often used for demanding transport tasks, including oversized cargo and military equipment

Quirky fact: In the 5th run, Lord Montagu drove a 1908 Unic taxi (French made), accompanied by London’s oldest taxi driver, with the fare for the entire distance clocked at 13 shillings. 

My daughter’s prayer mat

Found on the beach today: a cardboard packaging band labelled MY DAUGHTER’S PRAYER MAT. This type of band is typically used to wrap around a rolled-up prayer mat, serving both as branding and as a means of keeping the product neatly packaged for retail display or gifting. The colour scheme - pink with gold decorative motifs - suggests it is specifically marketed towards young girls, often as a gift to encourage them to participate in Islamic prayer. Such products are commonly sold in Islamic shops, online marketplaces, and gift stores, especially around religious holidays and celebrations.

Prayer mats designed for children frequently feature bright colours and engaging designs to make the practice of prayer more appealing and accessible. The MY DAUGHTER’S PRAYER MAT brand or product line is part of a growing market for faith-based educational products aimed at young Muslims. These mats may come with additional items such as digital counters or prayer beads, and are often presented in attractive packaging to make them suitable for gifting.

The provenance of this particular packaging band is most likely linked to a recent purchase or gifting event. It may have been brought to Brighton beach by a family or individual who had acquired the mat for a child, perhaps to facilitate prayer during a day out or as part of a celebratory outing. The band was likely removed from the mat either at the beach or en route, and subsequently left behind, either by accident or through careless disposal. This item can, in fact, be found for sale on the Little Thinker website (Abu Dhabi).

As someone who visits the beach very often - daily in the summer months - I can testify that, in general, the pebbles are kept remarkably clear and free of a litter. This is largely down to Brighton & Hove City Council, I believe, which - among other initiatives - supports beach clean-up efforts through partnerships with local community groups, environmental organisations, and corporate volunteer programs. Walking on a quiet part of the beach (east of the pier) this afternoon for 20 minutes or so, the MY DAUGHTER’S PRAYER MAT wrapper was almost the only item of litter I came across.

Eastenders on Brighton Beach

The Argus published a great story about EastEnders on this day in 1998, or rather a story with a great intro, as follows: ‘Millions of viewers saw George go on the run recently after a series of ding-dongs with hot-tempered Peggy in the top soap - he fled to New Zealand. But George, played by Brighton-based actor Paul Moriarty, is more down the road than down under. Paul has swapped sleaze for seaside as he enjoys his screen break from the series and has been spending more time with his family at home in Saltdean.’

Paul Moriarty, known for his role as the shady club owner George Palmer in EastEnders, may have left the Square for screen reasons - but in real life, he’d simply gone local - the Argus reported. A Saltdean resident, Moriarty enjoyed the calmer rhythms of Brighton life while taking a break from his acting career. It was a neat contrast to the criminal undertones of George’s story arc, which ended with a hasty fictional flight to New Zealand after falling out with Peggy Mitchell.

Brighton Beach itself has been the dramatic backdrop for several EastEnders episodes across the years - most notably a special set of episodes in November 1999. The storyline followed a group of Walford residents - including Ricky and Janine Butcher, Melanie Healy, Mick McFarlane, Sam Mitchell, Mark Fowler, and Fred Fonseca - on a weekend trip to the seaside. The episodes featured a mix of drama, personal revelations, and emotional turning points set against Brighton’s iconic backdrops such as the Palace Pier and seafront.

Key plotlines included Janine’s near-drowning after a night of heavy drinking (film still taken from Youtube), Melanie sharing a kiss with Steve Owen while doubting her engagement to Ian Beale, and Fred Fonseca attempting to come out as gay to his friend Mick. Meanwhile, Beppe di Marco misinterpreted a situation between Sam and Ricky, leading to emotional fallout. (NB: This publicity photograph is available for purchase at Alamy.)

 

Victory in Europe Day

Brighton’s commemoration of the 80th anniversary of VE Day is taking place this evening on the seafront, near the Peace Statue. It is bringing together the city’s cadet forces, uniformed services, veterans and members of the public for a short service and the lighting of a beacon - joining hundreds of others across the UK. Exactly, 80 years ago today, a young Tony Simmonds was celebrating with his friends near the clocktower, and would write a memorable entry in his diary about the day. 

Victory in Europe Day - on 8 May 1945 - marked the official end of World War II in Europe with the unconditional surrender of Nazi Germany, following Adolf Hitler’s suicide on 30 April 1945 and the signing of surrender documents by Germany’s new leader, Karl Dönitz. It ended nearly six years of devastating war that caused millions of deaths and widespread destruction across Europe. The day was declared a national holiday in Britain, where millions celebrated with street parties, dancing, singing, and public gatherings.

However Brighton Beach remained closed (it had been closed since July 1940) - see the 1944 photograph below, available at the Brighton & Hove Museums collection. It would take some weeks/months to be cleared and re-opened. Internet searches reveal only that small sections of the beach had been temporarily opened to the public for swimming in the summer following D-Day in June 1944. However, after VE Day, a full reopening required the extensive and dangerous process of clearing the mines and removing the wartime defences (a postcard dated 23 September 1945 is said to show the the beaches accessible again - see here).

Perhaps if the beach had been open then that is where Tony Simmonds might have been on VE Day. As it happens, he wasn’t too far away - at the Clock Tower. He was just a teenager, having not long since moved from Winchester to Brighton. He kept a diary through the war. Extracts from this can be found online at MyBrightonandHove, and also in my book Brighton in Diaries. His entry for VE Day, though, is especially interesting and engaging. 

8 May 1945

‘VICTORY IN EUROPE DAY - I was at work - when I came back from lunch at 2 pm I found everyone in a hustle and bustle. The Manager said we were going to get out by 3.30. We did. Even then we had time to rush out to hear Churchill’s speech at 3 o’clock and a fine speech it was too.

We all knew something would happen in the evening and it did. It came right up to my fullest expectations. I just can’t describe the scene. I was alone most of the time and spent almost five hours around the Clock Tower. People just went mad - dancing, singing, chanting, shouting - the crowd just surged this way and that - The Academy, the Odeon and the Regent were all floodlit for the first time in almost six years - fire crackers, flares and even pre-war ‘jumpers’ were thrown about the streets - even into busses - all policemen ‘had their eyes shut’.

I left at just after 11 pm leaving behind me a riot going on outside the Regent - where a drunken sailor was protesting against a charge of 10/6d for a dance in the Regent Dance Hall. What a day - I shall never forget it for the rest of my life.’

Our house is decorated up - four flags - a shield and red, white & blue streamers. Even Mrs Guild next door has her standard flying. As for the town itself - well I never knew there were so many flags manufactured. My bike has a big rosette and streamers on its handlebars.’

The ceremony at the Peace Statue this evening is being supported by the Royal British Legion, the Salvation Army band, Sussex Police and Downs Junior School. Rev. David Hazell from St Helen’s Church, Hangleton, is giving a short service. Brighton & Hove Buses is also in attendance with its bus named Stephen Barnwell. Barnwell was a WWII hero. Landing in Normandy on D-Day. He was twice wounded, and much later in life was honoured twice by the French.