How long is Brighton Beach?

Before I go any further with this blog, I need to define exactly what I mean by Brighton Beach, and what I see as its extent, both east and west. I thought this would be a quick, easy task, but not so. How long, for example, is Brighton Beach? Or should I be asking how long is Brighton & Hove Beach? ChatGPT tells me 1.8 miles for the first question, 8.5 miles for the second. Perplexity also answers the second question as around 8 miles but gives me 4-5.6 miles for the first. Brighton & Hove City Council (via Google) gives me 4 miles for the second question.

Part of the problem is that the coastline within the boundaries of Brighton & Hove City stretches from Rottingdean in the east to a little way along Southwick Beach (which is mostly in Shoreham). As the crow flies along the coast, that’s 8 miles. But a first problem arises because Rottingdean is rarely referred to as part of Brighton since, geographically, it is separated by countryside. Moreover, the coast between Rottingdean and Brighton is all rocky with access along an undercliff promenade. To my mind, none of that stretch can be included in any definition of Brighton Beach.

So, for me, Brighton Beach starts beyond the west side of the Marina at the place historically called Black Rock. Going west along the pebbles, Brighton Beach certainly continues as far as the historic boundary with Hove, at the Peace Statue. That’s just over 2 miles. 

A further nearly 2 miles west brings us to a natural end to the beach at Hove Lagoon, at the far end of the Hove gardens and esplanade. Yes, this stretch can legitimately be called Hove Beach, but I take the view that it can also be considered part of Brighton Beach. 

Thus - and the council was right - the length of Brighton Beach (that I will cover in this blog) is 4 miles, from Black Rock to Hove Lagoon. (Just west of the lagoon, by the way, is Millionaires Row, a select group of large houses that - very unusually - have their own private beach. Beyond them, to the west is the often deserted Southwick Beach sandwiched between Shoreham Harbour and the sea. Confusingly, the eastern end is within the borders of Brighton & Hove City, though it is managed by Shoreham Port.)

I’ve lived in Brighton for nearly 20 years but never known (till researching this article) that the beach is divided up into about 20 sections each with their locality name. I don’t believe they are used very often, and they may well change from time to time. Nevertheless, here’s a list of the beach sections as best I could determine, moving west from Hove lagoon. 

Boundary: Located near the western boundary of Hove, this area marks the transition from Hove to Portslade.

Norfolk: Close to Norfolk Square.

Bedford: Near Bedford Square, associated with the site of the historic Bedford Hotel.

Metropole: Around the Hilton Brighton Metropole Hotel.

Grand: Adjacent to The Grand Brighton Hotel, a key landmark.

Centre: Central, encompassing the busiest stretch of the seafront.

King’s: Associated with King’s Road, running parallel to the beach.

Old Ship: Near the historic Old Ship Hotel.

Palace Pier: Centered around the Brighton Palace Pier.

Aquarium: Near Sea Life Brighton, just east of the Palace Pier.

Volk’s: Along the route of Volk’s Electric Railway.

Albion: Possibly related to the Albion area or nearby landmarks.

Athina: Named after local businesses or landmarks in this area.

Paston: Around Paston Place and Madeira Terraces.

Banjo: Named after the Banjo Groyne, east of the central areas.

Duke’s: Associated with Duke’s Mound and nearby eastern beach sections.

Cliff: Designated nudist beach, near the cliffs.

Crescent: Refers to a quieter section of the beach near the eastern end.

Black Rock: The easternmost section, near Brighton Marina.

Après Ski By The Sea!

Snow does not often fall on Brighton Beach; and very infrequently does it settle on the pebbles. Nevertheless, yesterday saw a brief, but flurry-full snowstorm. There was traffic chaos, of course, and children’s joy undiminished in residential streets and parks. It may or may not be widely known but Brighton Beach has the perfect venue for such days.

Located at 127 Kings Road Arches, the family-run Brighton Music Hall boasts the largest beach terrace in the UK with covered spaces. Every winter, the owners say, ‘we like to bring you something new and exciting - join us for Après Ski By The Sea!’. Amazingly, I would say, so far from the mountains, Après Ski By The Sea! features faux fur filled igloos, ski chalets clad with tartans, cushions, alpine backdrops and log fires, the Fallen Fairy bar, and decadent cocktails, alpine treats and dishes. And, of course, a wooden toboggan.

Currently, the venue’s website offers, in its What’s On section, ‘Drag Roasts’ and ‘Funky Fridays’. It is also promising free fizz for early birds who are prepared to make a 15 + booking for Christmas 2025.

As it’s perfectly possible the rest of these 365 days will pass by without further snowfalls, I am taking this opportunity to display the most snowy Brighton Beach photo I have - from April 2008. Although the ragged snowman is mine, the photo of Hattie was taken by a passing stranger, a professional cameraman who asked permission to take it, and then sent us a copy. Unfortunately, I seem to have no record of his name.

Madeira Terrace restoration - hurrah!

At last, hurrah, restoration work on the Madeira Drive terraces - such a major feature of the sea front east of Brighton Pier - has begun. Well, in fact, work began late last year, with vegetation and rubbish clearance, but now the refurbishment of 28 (of 151) arches and the construction of a new lift is underway with hope of the first restored section being opened in 2026. It’s been a long haul for the council since it closed the entire length of Madeira Walk, the upper deck, and some of the staircases nearly a decade ago. 

Originally designed by Brighton Borough Surveyor Philip C. Lockwood, the terraces were built during the late Victorian era to capitalise on flourishing seaside tourism. Extending to 865 meters, the terraces were the longest continuous cast-iron structure in Britain. The covered promenade - offering visitors shelter and stunning views - formed part of a larger complex with Madeira Walk, the Madeira Lift, and the Madeira Shelter Hall - all elements sharing a cohesive architectural style and color scheme (the very familiar turquoise). Between the wars, the terrace was extended to connect with the aquarium; and during post-war years, the attractive extent of Madeira Drive became a magnet for big events and large crowds - The Brighton Speed Trials, for example, and the Veteran Car Run.

Decades of inadequate maintenance, however, led to safety concerns and the closure of some areas as early as 2012; more sections were progressively shut until almost all of the structures were fenced off by 2016. By 2021, the terrace was considered to be in a state of ‘severe disrepair’, with parts at risk of collapse. The council has struggled to raise the finance necessary to undertake such a huge refurbishment job - in 2016, the cost was estimated at £25m. Although it twice failed to secure any Lottery finance, the Council has bulked out its own contribution with funds from Historic England and a crowdfunding campaign. It’s worth noting that 100 odd documents are associated with the planning application for this project - Brighton & Hove City Council.

Following a public invitation to tender, civil engineering contractor JT Mackley & Co. was appointed to undertake the first phase. Mackley specialises in tackling challenging coastline schemes and claims it has experience of working on world heritage sites, scheduled monuments and listed buildings. Other project partners include: Purcell (conservation architects), HOP (local engineers), Landscape Projects, and Stantec (lighting and design). Here is the latest project update from Mackley, which is impressively detailed.

‘With the area now demarcated, the site made safe, and our welfare cabin and services installed, Mackley’s role in the restoration project has begun in earnest. Working closely with ecologists, we have started the process of safely removing the excess vegetation from the Green Wall and this work will continue into the New Year. We have retained the nutrient-rich soil for future planting and have successfully taken a number of cuttings including some from the mature Japanese Spindle plants and the Hoary Stock, one of rarest native plants found on the green wall. The plant cuttings and soil have been taken away and placed in storage, protecting them from the works so that they can be replanted in the future. The team have also made progress removing old cabling and Yorkstone paving from the wall and have started removing the tarmac and benches from the upper promenade. Our next step is to apply paint-stripper to the bolts on the cast-iron arches, which are thick with multiple layers of rust and paint Once this is removed, and we can undo the bolts, we will begin the process of dismantling the 28 arches included in Phase 1 of the project. Each arch has numerous sections, all forged independently, and each piece will need to be cleaned, tested, and examined by our specialists To make sure we put them back In the exact same spot, we will employ a complex system of tagging as they are taken apart.’

Further information and updates on the restoration project are also available from the council.

Guest: Brighton Beach, Perth

Fed up of the English winter, the rain, the wind, the cold? Well, welcome to the first of this columns’s guest Brighton Beaches - where the temperature is over 30 degrees, and the sun is shining all day long. 

Brighton Beach is considered ‘a little local secret’ just to the south of Perth’s famous surf spot, Scarborough Beach, but less crowded and with clean white sand. If the sea breeze is up, according to Tourism Western Australia, you can watch the windsurfers and kitesurfers, or get in the water and ‘grab some of the wave and wind action yourself’. 

Scarboro Info says: ‘Brighton Beach is the ideal Indian Ocean vacation destination to relax and meet the beautiful people of Perth who know Brighton beach, a locality of the Perth suburb of Scarborough [which] has the best white sand surf beach in Australia.’ 

Or can you? Is it safe to go in the water? 

Only three weeks ago, hundreds of beachgoers had to flee the beach after a tiger shark was spotted meters from the shore. A rescue helicopter spotted the 3m shark just off Brighton Beach, and a witness said a lifeguard confirmed the shark sighting before closing the beach. The scare came one day after a teenager was bitten by a shark of an unknown species at a Mandurah beach, 50 miles south. And only a few days ago, a ‘monster shark’ came dangerously close to swimmers at Whitfords Beach, 8 miles north of Brighton Beach. The West Australian and MSN.

i360 stranded sky high - with sky-high debts

Less than 10 years since a mirrored doughnut carried its first passengers high into the sky, the infamous i360 has become stranded there. The 162-meter observation tower opened in 2016 as a bold, futuristic addition to Brighton’s seafront. Designed by the creators of the London Eye, it promised stunning views from its observation car (the doughnut on a stick!), and a boost to local tourism. However, the project quickly ran into trouble, plagued by technical issues, long queues, and underwhelming visitor numbers. 

A click on the company’s website now provides no more than a brief stark announcement: ‘Steve Absolom and Will Wright were appointed Joint Administrators of Brighton I-360 Limited - in Administration (the ‘Company’) on 20 December 2024 and as a result the Company has ceased trading immediately. Please direct all queries to Brightoni360@interpath.com.’

The structure, reportedly, cost £46m, partly paid for with a whopping £36m loan from the Public Works Loan Board via Brighton & Hove City Council. The then council leader, Simon Burgess, predicted the facility would ‘transform the city’ and generate significant revenue. For its first five years it was glamorously sponsored by British Airways, but early technical faults and financial difficulties seemed to bode less than well. 

In December 2022, the attraction defaulted on its council debt, and in November 2024, Brighton i360 Ltd filed for administration - citing (rather lamely don’t you think) rising costs, unfavourable weather, and the cost-of-living crisis. On 20 December, it closed abruptly, with all 100 plus employees made redundant. Brighton & Hove City Council announced an inquiry into the closure, and it revealed that the owners owed the council a staggering £51 million. The council, which pays £2.2 million annually for the loan until 2040, faces significant financial repercussions. Deputy leader Jacob Taylor described the investment as having been ‘a financial disaster for the council.’

And a long-term eyesore to boot. It seems I was calling the i360 an eyesore before it was even completed. Here’s an entry from my diary, a few weeks before the opening.

20 July 2016

‘The i360 is soon to open, I read in the ‘Argus’, and tickets have gone on sale for the 20 minute ‘flight’. It’s owned or operated by British Airways, and has some slick advertising and promotion, but I take exception to the idea that it’s a vertical ‘pier’, and that where Victorians walked out above the sea, we can now walk on air. That might have some truth if the floor were glass and transparent, but I’m pretty sure it’s not. The pod can hold up to 200 people - that wouldn’t be much fun would it. And £13.50-15 for an adult ticket! For 20 minutes entertainment, and nothing more than a view. A) piers were never that expensive, and B) there was no time limit, and C) most piers had/have different kinds of entertainment, things to see/do. Pah! is all I can say. And I’ve come to see the tall column, with its teeny-weeny pod when seen from afar, as a bit of an eyesore.’

In 2015, during construction of the i360, there was some very colorful wall art on the surrounding fencing. I photographed it for my blog Graffiti Brighton. Here’s a sample.

Modern art sublime

Today, I found this abandoned bike on Brighton Beach, beneath the pier, unwanted, unloved. Nevertheless, ChatGPT, with a little persuasion and guidance, has found it to have not only an existential soul but all the trappings of ‘modern art sublime’.

Ode to a Brighton Bike

Upon the pebbled Brighton shore,

A bike lies wrecked, it rides no more.

Its wheels once spun with daring flair,

Now caged behind a steely stare.

Rust blooms orange on its frame,

A monument to love’s disdain.

Who left it here, mid salty spray,

To languish, rot, and fade away?

A boot still clings - its sole protest,

Against this life of cruel neglect.

Once partners speeding down the lane,

Now stranded, stuck in seaside shame.

A basket, bent, with secrets kept,

Might whisper tales of rides adept.

Of groceries, or lovers’ trysts,

Now home to sand and seaweed mist.

Oh Brighton Beach, you fickle host,

To broken dreams and driftwood ghosts.

This bike, once proud, now takes its place,

Among the ruins time will erase.

So passersby, do pause and glance,

At this sad bike’s ironic stance.

A relic bound in seaside grime - 

Brighton's answer to modern art sublime.

King of the Slot Machines

Daltons, a grassroots performance and event venue on the beach close to the pier, has just been granted more liberal alcohol licensing conditions, despite initial objections from the police. Though little remembered today, the venue carries the name of Oliver Dalton, once known as the King of the Slot Machines.

The venue, with a maximum capacity of 170, has secured an extended off-sales licence, allowing customers to leave the venue with alcoholic drinks (though this is only until 10.00 am in summer); and it is now allowed to stay open until 3:30 am at weekends. Among the conditions agreed to by Madeira Leisure (owned by Jeffrey and Jayne Iris Sanders) are: hosting at least seven arts-led live entertainment events a week, and a commitment to keep the sale of alcohol ancillary to operating as a grass roots music venue. Madeira Leisure also owns Brighton Zip, situated directly above Daltons.

Prior to agreement of the new licensing conditions, police feared there might be a potential for increased crime and disorder, and that the venue could evolve into a night club, and/or more of a bar than a restaurant with a carnival or DJ vibe. A rival business operator also expressed concern that allowing drinking at the bar after meals could be a ‘Trojan horse’ for converting the premises into an alcohol-led or ‘wet’ venue! Brighton and Hove News

The specific beach area there is known as Dalton’s Bastion, named after Oliver Dalton, born 1879. He was the eldest son of War Office clerk Oliver D’Alton and Eliza Powell. The family moved from South London to Brighton around 1888, but his father died the following year. His mother opened a boarding house, and he himself delivered newspapers. Aged only 13, he applied unsuccessfully for a position as a timekeeper on the Chain Pier. Instead, he became a naval cadet on a training ship moored on the Thames, but then took a clerical position in Woolwich. He enlisted as a trooper in the Imperial Yeomanry and served in South Africa during the closing stages of the second Boer War. 

Back in Brighton, Dalton obtained a licence to operate a number of beach huts and bathing machines on the foreshore to the east of what was then Palace Pier (now Brighton Pier), an area which had been re-designated to allow mixed bathing (having hitherto been only for ladies). Ever entrepreneurial, he travelled to the US to buy slot machines and pleasure rides which, once installed, not only made him rich but earned him recognition in the entertainment industry. He acquired an interest in the Palace Pier, the greyhound stadium and other seafront shops. Famous at home and abroad, Dalton was described by one foreign newspaper as The King of Slot Machines.

Unfortunately, with the start of the war, the pier and beaches were closed and Dalton was heading for financial ruin. Aged only 60, he took his own life in 1939.

My Brighton and Hove has more on the man, as well as additional notes by local history buffs.