Tuesday, June 10, 2025

Marrocco’s and the dawn of TripAdvisor

Fifteen years ago, in June 2010, a TripAdvisor user named Candyjo quietly posted what remains one of the earliest - and most charming - online restaurant reviews in the UK. Her destination was Marrocco’s, the family-run Italian institution on Hove’s seafront. At the time, hers was the only review for the year - only the second in total. Today, there are nearly a thousand.


Founded in 1969 by the Marrocco family, the Brighton Beach business began as a gelateria serving homemade Italian ice cream prepared fresh each morning. Over the decades it evolved into a full restaurant, offering fresh seafood, pasta and grills in a close-knit, cheerful setting. The heart of the operation remains the same: a warm welcome, an open kitchen, and food made with care.

TripAdvisor, meanwhile, was just beginning to take root in the UK dining scene. Although the platform launched in the US in 2000, its early growth in Britain was slower. In 2010, most independent restaurants still relied on word-of-mouth, and online reviews were more novelty than norm. This is what makes Candyjo’s post feel like a time capsule. 

She wrote in June 2010: ‘If you go here (please don’t - I like to be able to get a table) you need to accept that it’s a small, family-run place where they cook the food in an open kitchen that might be right by your elbow, and if they’re too busy then you’ll have to wait, and if you take longer than usual over your starter that might mess up the timing a bit but that what you get is authentic, fresh and delicious.

I had the crab linguine - a whole spider crab so not a huge amount of meat, and very messy of course what with pincers and extractors etc - it was already chopped up a bit, the pasta spilled from the shell like a piece of art - it was beautiful. Am I being too effusive? Probably. It’s just so rare to get food this good, that looks this good and that I can afford (£11.95). The pasta sauce included fresh cherry tomatoes to die for, a hint of heat (chilli), perfect.

My companion had a whole, huge sea bass, grilled perfectly. Same price; it came with chips. The tables are closely packed and if it’s busy it’s noisy. There are children, who might possibly run around were there room to but there isn’t. There are grandparents, business people, couples, friends; often they seem to be Italian which seems a good thing. The staff are friendly and knowledgeable.

Perhaps you should go with the idea that it’s a cafĂ© that serves fab food (and with ‘greasy spoon’ cafes charging perhaps £7 or £8 for a plate of breakfast, this is a bargain in comparison). Get a bottle of wine, linger. Then walk along the seafront towards the dreamy sunset and remember that city living can have its advantages.

I don’t especially like the ice cream (not sweet enough for me) but I don’t go there for that. Though I did share an ice cream ‘cocktail’ thing (banana split?) once and it was good.

Fifteen years later, the heart of that review still beats. The prices may have changed, but the atmosphere, the setting and the charm of Marrocco’s continue to draw locals and visitors alike. Candyjo’s post wasn’t just an early review - it was a small piece of Brighton food history, lovingly written, and now part of the restaurant’s long and ongoing story.


Monday, June 9, 2025

Dombey’s son on Brighton Beach

Charles Dickens, who died 155 years ago today, knew Brighton well. He first visited the seaside resort in October 1837 and returned frequently over the next 30 years, often staying at the Bedford Hotel (now replaced by the modern Holiday Inn on the seafront following the original building’s destruction by fire in 1964). He also lodged at the Old Ship Hotel and with friends in private residences. While in Brighton, Dickens worked on parts of several novels, including Bleak House, Barnaby Rudge, and most notably Dombey and Son.

Dickens appreciated Brighton not just as a place to write, but to observe. In a newly discovered letter, he wrote: ‘I feel much better for my short stay here, also the characters one meets at these seaside places.’ In 2012, a blue plaque was unveiled on the Holiday Inn to mark the 200th anniversary of his birth, commemorating his strong links to the town. Further details of his Brighton connections are available at the Brighton & Hove Museums website.


In Dombey and Son, the Brighton coast plays a central symbolic and narrative role. The novel, a meditation on pride, emotional repression, and redemption, follows the life of Paul Dombey, a cold, ambitious businessman obsessed with his shipping empire and the hope of passing it to a male heir. The story opens with the birth of his son, Paul Jr., and the simultaneous death of his wife. Dombey’s daughter, Florence, is largely ignored - valued neither in business nor lineage.

The frail and introspective Paul Jr. is advised to spend time by the sea for his health, and so he and Florence are sent to Brighton. They stay first at the austere Mrs. Pipchin’s boarding house and later at the school of the formidable Dr. Blimber. These episodes mark some of the most poignant and poetic passages in Dickens’s writing, in which Brighton Beach becomes more than a setting: it is a landscape of revelation, sorrow, and spiritual inquiry.

In chapter eight, we discover Paul’s favourite place is not among the bustling crowds, but a quiet, remote stretch of beach, where Florence reads to him and he reflects deeply: ‘His favourite spot was quite a lonely one, far away from most loungers; and with Florence sitting by his side at work, or reading to him. . . he wanted nothing more.’ He becomes fascinated by the sea, sensing a hidden language in the endless waves: ‘The sea, Floy, what is it that it keeps on saying?’ She told him that it was only the noise of the rolling waves. ‘Yes, yes,’ he said. ‘But I know that they are always saying something. Always the same thing.’

The beach also gives Dickens the chance to provide Paul with limited social interaction: a daily encounter with a gruff, elderly fisherman - ‘a weazen, old, crab-faced man in a suit of battered oil-skin’ - adds colour to his otherwise quiet days. Yet solitude and introspection dominate: ‘Another time, in the same place, he fell asleep, and slept quietly for a long time. Awaking suddenly, he listened, started up, and sat listening.’

The Victorian Web website has several illustrations of Brighton Beach from different editions of Dombey and Son. The one immediately above is by Harold Copping for Mary Angela Dickens’s Children’s Stories from Dickens and the one above that is by W. L. Sheppard for the 1873 American Household Edition of Dombey and Son.

One cannot say the novel ends happily since despite the hopeful associations of sea air and convalescence, Paul’s condition worsens, and he dies young. Florence is heartbroken and the emotional void between her and her father deepens. Nevertheless - this is Dickens after all - there is, ultimately, a sense of moral reckoning and eventual redemption.

Beyond writing retreats, Dickens’s relationship with Brighton was also marked by performance. He gave several public readings in the town, including a much-admired appearance at the Royal Pavilion on 9 November 1861, where his dramatic rendering of scenes from his novels drew packed audiences. Brighton featured again on his Farewell Reading Tour in 1867-1868, during which his health was already deteriorating. Indeed, he would die on 9 June 1870, Much more on Dickens can be found at Wikipedia.

Sunday, June 8, 2025

New Nuun beach run

Today saw the debut of the Nuun BRIGHTON TEN & FREE Foundation 5K, a two-part running event bringing a new blend of competition and inclusivity to Brighton’s seafront. Organised by RunThrough Events and its non-profit arm, the RunThrough Foundation, the day’s races highlighted two distinct aims: one focused on performance over a new 10-mile distance, the other offering a completely free, accessible route into running for local communities.


The Nuun BRIGHTON TEN, a 10-mile closed-road race, began at 9:00am on Madeira Drive, near Brighton Marina. The course was flat, fast and scenic, with chip-timed results, three water stations, and energy gel support at mile six. Entry cost £40, or £52 for those opting to include a sustainable tech t-shirt. All finishers received a medal, refreshments, and free event photography.


The second event, the FREE Foundation 5K, started shortly after at 9:20am and was open to participants via a free-entry ballot. Ballot places were allocated in three stages during April and May, with priority given to underrepresented communities, including low-income households and first-time runners. The 5K route also followed the coast, and participants enjoyed the same finish-line support, safety infrastructure, and festive atmosphere as the 10-mile field.

Though held on the same day, the two events were organised by different wings of the same company. RunThrough Events, founded in 2013 by former international athletes Matt Wood and Ben Green, has grown into one of the UK’s most prolific race organisers, delivering more than 200 events per year across the country. From its roots in a 300-person 10K at Bushy Park, the company has expanded to include half marathons, virtual races, and the launch of RunThrough Kit, an apparel line. Their events are known for strong logistics, welcoming atmospheres and iconic UK venues.

The FREE Foundation 5K, meanwhile, is the product of the RunThrough Foundation, launched in 2023 to remove barriers to distance running. Its mission is to make road racing accessible to all by offering free, closed-road events, especially in communities that might otherwise face economic or social exclusion. The foundation held its first large-scale race at Warrington in 2023, with over 30% of participants running their first-ever event. It followed up with a free London 10K in December 2024. Each event is coupled with year-round community training and support, working in partnership with councils, charities and local groups to leave a lasting impact.

Together, the two Brighton races represent a new approach to running events: one that preserves the structure and ambition of traditional racing while opening the sport to new audiences. Whether chasing a personal best or completing a first run, participants at today’s Brighton TEN and FREE Foundation 5K helped launch what looks set to become a major fixture in the city’s sporting calendar.


Incidentally, Nuun, pronounced ‘Noon’, describes itself as ‘the first company to separate electrolyte replacement from carbohydrates.’ The result, it says, was ‘a healthy, hydrating beverage without all of the extra sugar and additives’. Over a decade later, Nuun Hydration markets itself as ‘hydrating the planet one runner, surfer, cyclist, mother, yogi, hula hooper at a time (the list goes on…)!’


Saturday, June 7, 2025

Monster moaning

Oh, sure - laugh it up. Take your selfies, poke my chest, comment on my ‘classic look’. I’ve stood here on this splintered pier through wind, rain, stag dos, hen parties, and the occasional rogue seagull attack, and not once has anyone thought to ask how I feel. I’m Frankenstein’s MONSTER, damn it. Not a prop. Not a photo op. A BEING stitched from human remains and existential dread - and yet somehow, I’ve become a mascot for your wretched seaside giddiness.


Every day, thousands of you shuffle past, sticky with candy floss, reeking of sunblock and regret, funnelling into the haunted house behind me like sheep queueing for a predictable fright. ‘Ooh, spooky!’ you say. Is it? Is it really? I’ve seen scarier things in your pop culture. You’ve got real monsters now - algorithmic surveillance, climate collapse, influencers. But no, you want a 1950s rubber mask and a few jump-scares. That’s enough horror for your Instagram.

And don’t get me started on the paint. Who keeps giving me these slapdash touch-ups? I look like someone tried to fix a Renaissance fresco with emulsion and a plastic spoon. My hands are scuffed, my bolts are rusted, and my suit - my suit - was once the pinnacle of stitched-together sophistication. Now I look like a bouncer at a discount Halloween disco.

I hear your conversations. I do. ‘Look, it’s Frankenstein!’ No. Wrong. Frankenstein was the doctor. I am the nameless creation, the wretched patchwork soul who wandered the Alps questioning the morality of man. But go ahead - reduce me to a misunderstood Halloween clichĂ©, why don’t you?

And what is this cursed playlist on the pier? I’ve listened to ‘Agadoo’ more times than I’ve contemplated mortality. Which is saying something. You think eternal life is glamorous? Try standing motionless next to a coin-operated skeleton that laughs every time a child screams. I once pondered the ethics of divine creation. Now I know the true abyss: karaoke night on a bank holiday Monday.

Do I get a break? A moment of stillness? No. Just endless photos, drunks trying to grope me for laughs, and the seagulls - God, the seagulls. I was struck by lightning to be brought to life, and now I live in constant fear of bird droppings and chip theft.

So yes, I’m angry. I deserve better. I deserve a gallery, a plinth, a plaque explaining my tragic origins. Not this rotting boardwalk of flashing lights and bubblegum detritus. Well, fine. Take your photo, but just so you know, my true creator, Mary Shelley, is turning, eternally, agonisingly in her grave.

Friday, June 6, 2025

Beside the Sea

Brighton’s 2025 Beside the Sea exhibition, running from May through September, features works by renowned photographers Martin Parr and JJ Waller, with a particular focus on Waller’s intimate and playful portrayal of Brighton Beach. The exhibition is presented in three distinct venues: the Hove Museum of CreativityThe Seafront Gallery, and, most strikingly, on the roofs of Brighton’s bus shelters (which, according to the organisers, is a world first).


JJ Waller, a British documentary photographer born and raised in Brighton, is well known locally for his portraits of people in Brighton and other coastal towns such as St Leonards-on-Sea and Blackpool. His images capture the spirit of Brighton Beach, a place celebrated for its freedom, eccentricity, and everyday spectacle. Waller’s photographs depict children with ice cream-smeared faces, sunbathers asleep on the pebbles, and the curious mix of visitors in various states of undress, all contributing to a rich visual record of seaside life. 

Drawing on his background in performance and theatre, Waller blends candid moments with a staged quality, highlighting the ritual and rhythm of the beach without losing sight of humour and humanity. His recent work, including widely praised Covid-19 lockdown portraits of Sussex residents taken through their windows, has brought him national recognition and was even edited into a collection by Martin Parr.


The Beside the Sea exhibition breaks new ground by presenting over 65 large-scale photographs some pasted flat onto the roofs of 30 bus shelters across Brighton, visible only from the top deck of a double-decker bus. This innovative approach transforms everyday journeys into art experiences, integrating photography into the city’s fabric and making the exhibition accessible to all with a bus ticket or pass. Waller, inspired by childhood memories of bus rides with his mother, sees this as a unique way to open up new exhibition spaces and reach audiences who might not typically visit galleries. He describes the collaboration with Parr, who is exhibiting in Brighton for the first time, as a dream come true, likening it to a young musician sharing a double album with legends like Bowie or McCartney.

In addition to the bus shelter installations, the exhibition is anchored at the Hove Museum of Creativity and The Seafront Gallery, where visitors can enjoy classic and rarely seen seaside photographs in more traditional gallery settings. The gallery, located on the lower esplanade by the West Pier spiral, offers an enhanced experience for those promenading along the beach, blending art with the everyday seaside environment. While Martin Parr’s contributions add national context and depth with images from his iconic Last Resort series and other archives, it is JJ Waller’s local focus and playful sensibility that give Beside the Sea its distinctly Brightonian flavour. 

Thursday, June 5, 2025

New temp beach huts for renting

Eleven new beach huts will be available for hiring in Hove, near the Peace Statue, from Monday. The huts are under construction for Kairos - a boutique events agency - and will be rented out online through the summer until September. Their installation has been authorised by Brighton & Hove Council with an events licence, but Kairos has also put in a three year planning application so as to be able to continue the project for two more summers after this one.  


In the council planning documents, Kairos explains that a total of eleven beach huts will be installed along the concrete promenade adjacent to Hove Lawns - in ‘a currently underutilised section of the seafront’. They will be designed to complement the existing architectural character of the seafront, and will not impact any heritage or listed buildings. Moreover, they will follow the established design and colour schemes of the current beach huts. ‘These additions aim to enhance the vibrancy of Hove seafront by increasing footfall and providing new opportunities for both local residents and businesses to enjoy and engage with the beach hut experience.’

Kairos envisages close collaboration with the nearby cafe (see also The Meeting Place progress). For example, it says, ‘guests will have the convenience of ordering coffee and other beverages directly to their huts via a dedicated mobile app, creating a seamless and enjoyable seafront experience that supports local business and promotes visitor engagement.’ Furthermore, ‘collaboration with Brighton & Hove Albion Football Club will aim to deliver a range of seasonal activities aimed at engaging the local community. This partnership will include structured coaching sessions, skills workshops, and inclusive sporting events designed to promote physical activity, teamwork, and community involvement.’

Under the events licence, the beach huts are intended to remain in place for an initial period of five months, but the new planning permission application is for a duration of 36 months ‘to allow flexibility in extending the initiative’ - i.e. installing the huts for five months in each of the next two years. To date, the planning application has attracted one online comment, from a ‘neighbour’. He/she states: ‘The views from Grade I listed buildings in Brunswick Square and Terrace are affected. Furthermore, the height of the huts seem not to be as per existing beach huts with these new huts appearing to be considerably taller than all other beach huts and the specifications for those huts clearly defined and contrary to this application.’ 

Wednesday, June 4, 2025

Guest: Brighton Beach, Brooklyn, New York

Brighton Beach, Brooklyn, is arguably the second most famous Brighton Beach in the world. Named in the late 19th century by developers, it quickly took on a life of its own. The name refers not only to the beach itself but to the surrounding neighbourhood, a vibrant enclave that has evolved dramatically over time.


Originally marshland on the southern fringe of Brooklyn, in the 1870s, Brighton Beach was transformed - initially by the energy of entrepreneur William Engeman - into a fashionable destination. The grand Brighton Beach Hotel, built on 400 pilings driven into the sand, opened in 1878. It promised New York’s affluent classes an elegant retreat by the sea, with live orchestras, gas lighting, and fresh ocean breezes.

By the late 1880s, however, the hotel faced a serious threat: the Atlantic Ocean was steadily eroding the shoreline, bringing waves perilously close to the hotel’s foundation. To save the structure, in 1888, Engeman’s son (also William) invested in a remarkable engineering feat: the entire building, estimated to weigh eight million pounds, was lifted onto 112 railroad flatcars laid across 24 tracks and moved approximately 600 feet inland using six steam locomotives. The operation, completed over ten days, was hailed as the largest building move of the 19th century and ensured the hotel’s survival until its demolition in 1924. Much more about the local history can be found at this Coney Island website or Wikipedia.

Since 1878, the area had been linked by rail, making day trips to the beach feasible for the city’s growing middle class. Nevertheless, as the early 20th century progressed, the resort atmosphere began to wane, and Brighton Beach became more of a year-round residential community, though still offering summer relief to generations of families who could not afford more distant holiday vacations. The sandy shore, gently sloping into the Atlantic, was less garish than neighbouring Coney Island and drew a quieter crowd. The famous Riegelmann Boardwalk, dating from 1923, which connects Brighton Beach to Coney Island westward and Manhattan Beach eastward, became - and has remained - a place for promenading, gossiping, and people-watching.

Brighton Beach gained a new identity in the 1970s and 1980s with the arrival of thousands of Jewish immigrants from the collapsing Soviet Union. The beach was suddenly lined with voices speaking Russian, Ukrainian, and Uzbek. Delis and dumpling shops sprang up alongside the boardwalk, and signs appeared in Cyrillic. The neighbourhood gained the nickname ‘Little Odessa’, but the beach never lost its public character. It remained open to all, from families playing dominoes under beach umbrellas to sunbathers from across the boroughs. Hurricane Sandy in 2012 brought flooding and damage, but the community and city worked to restore the coastline, reinforcing dunes and shoring up flood defences.

Neil Simon’s semi-autobiographical play Brighton Beach Memoirs brought some attention to the locale. Published in 1982, it was set in the 1930s. In 1983, it received the New York Drama Critics’ Circle Award for Best Play. Some 40 years later, in 2024, the beach stepped into a brighter spotlight with the release of Anora, an Oscar-winning film that made effective use of the location’s gritty warmth and visual character, with scenes filmed on the boardwalk and beach.

Check out Brooklyn Magazine’s Insider Guide to Brighton Beach if you’re planning a visit.